Re-install thermopane into window frame
user-119380
| Posted in General Discussion on
I have removed two old thermopane windows because the seals had gone and there was condensation between the two panes. Now I have new thermopanes but I am not sure about how to re-install them. I have a roll of mastic tape . Do I put the tape onto the frame then place the glass, or is there another method?
Tom
Replies
Tom there is definitley another method. The right way to do this is go to a shop that makes thermopane glass, give them the dimensions and let them make a new one. Your condensation problem at best will be the same as you had before if uyou try to go any other route
Hi rob, I have went to a shop to get new thermopanes. I need to know the usual methods of putting the new pane back into the frame. What are the steps involved, do I put the mastic tape around first then place the pane into the tape, of is it the other way around? There is only 1/8 inch difference between glass size and frame size so I worried the fit will be very tight.
Tom
Personally I'd dump the tape and go with silicone.
silicone. OSI makes a specific one for glazing windows wich was used in marvin replacement glass & probobaly still is
I assume that the originals were bedded in mastic and not installed in a rubber/vinyl seal.
On a flat horizontal surface layout the sash. If you have to install with the sash in the window frame you will need to block the IG panel at the bottom to maintain equal caulking margins around the perimeter.
Ready the frames by cleaning away all remaining mastic. With a sharp chisel, burnish surface of the glazing rail to smooth dry wood and wipe away dust/shavings.
Dry fit the glass, remove same and carefully lay a flat bed of the butyl mastic tape onto the glaze rail. no gaps -no overlaps. Carefully seat the IG panel into the frame.
At this point I can think of 3 options.....
1. Replace aluminum or wood glazing strips from the original installation. If with rubber seals attached , clean before installing. If seals are brittle, broken then install with a small bead if approved caulk for the IG units. Some caulks will cause the seals to fail. Keep all water weeps open if present.
2. If the original windows were installed with traditonal "putty" glazing, then be sure to use glazier points to keep the IG from falling out, as the putty is a sealant only and not a mechanical "keeper". Paint when skinned and slightly hardened, lapping onto the glass a 16th.
3. Fill the balance of the exterior glazing rail with an appropriate caulk sealant, and smooth the finish. If you wish a color match, use a colored caulk or a caulk that will accept paint. Many silicones will not accept paint.
Allow the silicone/glazing to set in the horizontal for a couple of hours if possible, before installing in frame.
There are more permutations to this general sequence depending on the particulars of each job.
good luck..............................Iron Helix
Edited 8/16/2002 6:40:18 AM ET by Iron Helix
I have a dim memory from somewhere that the materials used to install them have to be compatible with the sealants of the thermal panes.
They certainly do.
The producer of the IG units can suppy the specifications................
AND the caulks that are NOT compatible.
................Iron Helix
go back to "glazing putty" The manufacturer now does not want to replace the window sashes. Further investigation reveals that the bed for the window pane is not primed.
Skip
Okay, most bare wood windows are not factory primed before glazing, most have been "pressure-treated" with a clear sealant to prevent rot prior to assembly.
There are exceptions to this generalization....usually associated with poor quality mfg specs on materials.
Be advised that the linseed oil in standard glazing compound may react with the IG edge sealant. so check the mfg. installation specs for a compatible glazing product.
.....................Iron Helix
Iron Helix is absolutely correct about checking with the IG manuf. about caulking compatibility with the IG edge sealant. Many oil-based sash putties will degrade the seal, as will acetic-type silicones. I have used neutral-cure silicone when recommended by the manufacturer.
Ken HIll
Iron, In addition to all your good advice, did you remember to mention the little rubber baby buggy bumpers?
The thing that jumped out at me in the first place here was the only 1/8" clearance. I got the impression that this was a rather large unit that should be cushioned at the base and there isn't much room for the rubber shims.Excellence is its own reward!
Yup................forgot the rubber cushions to keep that sheet of glass from sinking in the gooo! Thanks, Piffin...................Iron Helix