Have a 1880 era house with a beautiful staircase. The handrail and starting newel are in good shape. The balusters are dovetailed into the treads. The dovetail is covered with the nosing return. The entire balustrade has developed a lot of play. I am hoping to repair by removing the nosing returns and re-securing the baluster dovetails with glue. Anyone have a recommendation for glues? Hide glue, “gorilla”, epoxy?
Kip
Key proposals for the next edition of the International Residential Code tackle room sizes, stair specs, emergency egress, and deck guards, among other requirements.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
There's a product that is made for repairing furniture that comes to mind for some reason.
I think its called "Chair Doctor". It is a glue and applicator, designed to be used on wood that has been drying for decades -- like chairs and old-house stair parts.
Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.
I have heard of a product like that. Will check it out.
Thanks,
Kip
I wouldn't glue them....if they are really loose, wedge cedar shims in there
I'd worry that , if glued solid, they would perhaps lead to splits in the treads, or in the pickets
The pickets aren't structural, so a little float isn't a bad thing....
There is not a newel at the 180 degree turn at the landing or the 90 degree turn at the top of the stairs, just balusters. So, the lateral movement that newels normally absorb has to be absorbed by the balusters.
I considered hardwood shims, but I share the same concern with splitting the treads. Besides, the gaps are very small and the movement is side to side (perpendicular to the flares of the dovetail) and could not be resisted by the nailed-on nosing returns.
Still thinking, thanks for the help.
Kip
if you are missing newels in those locations, loose ballasters are the least of your worries...