Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 11, 1999 05:23pm | #1

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   You'll find nothing durable for a better price than cedar. At least in this area's markets. Two other options may be redwood and cypress but both are far more expensive than cedar. Maybe you're shopping at the wrong place. Then again, if real wood sidings were that affordable, everyone would be getting them. You can buy various styles of shake sidings in vinyl products but expect to pay anywhere from 2-3 dollars per square foot.

   Pete Draganic

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   Guest_ | Jun 11, 1999 06:25pm | #2

   *Stan - I built a small Terriaki restaurant a few years ago and we used plain sawn (no grooves) T-111 with 1x3 cedar batts 12" o.c. The guy we built it for is a pal of mine and he stained it himself with a semi-transparent stain. It looks great. The only downside is the necessary horizontal line at 9' where the sheets "stack" with z-metal between them. Depending on the heighth of your building, and layout of trim, you could conceal this fairly well also. A couple years later I resided another buddies house with a T-111 that he found at Home Depot that had a band sawn face that was totally free of those plugs that look like footballs. Very nice looking stuff for the money. (but that was the first and only time I ever saw that stuff. Maybe it is more common now.As for cedar, I'm with you, I love it. The truth is though, it's expensive as hell and takes maintainance. If you e mail me your address I will gladly send you some photos of those two T-111 projects. - jb

2. 
   Nancy_S | Jun 11, 1999 08:22pm | #3

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   I imagine they're over it by now, but years ago T–111 said that it could act as the sheathing too. Don't do it!

3. 
   Guest_ | Jun 11, 1999 11:08pm | #4

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   I have used a rough cut plywood with-out grooves and rough cut 1X3s that I beveled at 75 degrees as battons. I used the best Benny-moore latex primer and paint on the outside and the edges and for a few inches around the border of the back side. The oldest one was over 10 years ago and still looks great. I am beginning to think that with proper flashing, back priming, and end priming you could use balsa wood for siding.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 12, 1999 06:26am | #5

   *Ron - Don't forget sidings best friend...a big overhang! - jb

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   Guest_ | Jun 13, 1999 03:30pm | #6

   *There was an interesting "What's the Difference" column in FHB, which I just re-read but I did not note the issue# or date. Compares red, white and yellow cedar. White cedar sawn shingles might be a very acceptable side-wall substitute at a more reasonable price.

4. 
   Stanton | Jun 13, 1999 03:31pm | #7

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   I would like to side my house with shakes on the gabled ends and horizontal or vertical siding on the lower portion. I like the look of western red cedar shakes and rough sawn western red cedar siding. Red cedar siding is just too pricey. Does anyone have real experience with another less costly wood which can be made to look as good as red cedar through the application of stains and/or preservatives, ie. Penofin, Sikkens. I would consider using yellow pine shakes and T1-11 yellow pine with 1x2's added to look like batten and board if I could achieve the look. I would like the materials I use to last the life of the house assuming proper care is taken to preserve and protect the material over the years and I would like a material which only requires cleaning, finish, preservative etc. every three years or more. There are home centers, lumberyards and mills locally. Most all types of lumber can be found. Hemlock, pine, and poplar are available from local mills.