reducing lumber and thermal bridging
How can I reduce lumber at exterior corners,around windows, doors and other intentional openings and still provide structure for anchoring siding and trim?
Hopefully the following link will bring up a Lstiburek article and a wall framing detail
What is the best way to add “just enough” “backer” material around the window openings and at the corners? without just throwing a bunch of studs at it
http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/PDF/Protected/021174050.pdf
Replies
sorry, the illustration is on page 54 in the article mentioned above
You just need to plan it carefully considering siding and trim. We run 100% OSB and weave red label cedar shingles where ever we want with no concern for backing. If using clapboards and 5/4 x 4 and 5 exterior corners you would want to go to a 3 stud corner with sheetrock clips, ladder blocking or 1x4 sheetrock blocking. as to the windows one detail that can work is to work your layout so you have a stud about 8 to 12" away from the opening so the last nail in the clapboard is 4 to 8" away from the end of the board. Reduces splitting too.
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"You cannot work hard enough to make up for a sloppy estimate."
Thanks, Shelternerd that was the kind of answer I was looking for
I live in "Tornado Alley" and I also think that 100% osb is a wise choice
I like the OVE sketch on your website..how can I look at a larger image?
Are you talking about the hand-out we give our framers? We don't do the 10 degree angled sills any more, we've replaced that detail with galvanized steel sill pans. Guess I'll need to draw up a new hand out sheet. I hope that is helpful to you.Have a great day, I'm just procrastinating from doing my final tax review. Michael------------------"You cannot work hard enough to make up for a sloppy estimate."
Edited 4/15/2007 1:17 pm ET by ShelterNerd
homedesign,
Build with ICF's! They are about the same cost as stick built and designed to withstand 200 mph wind.. better thermal characteristics and extremely easy to do..
(My sister in law with absolutely no construction experience finished mine when a bad back had me bed bound for a month. ) she did a magnificent job with (I think, maybe 20 minutes of drug slurred directions) It took her about 6 hours which was maybe 2 hours longer than it would have taken me if I didn't have the back issue..
Lacking that you could build with SIP's again 200% greater strength than stick built no thermal bridging to speak of and faster construction by experienced crews.
Stick built is real horse and buggy stuff.. maybe ok when Gas cost 27 cents a gallon but in todays environment as obsolete as the doodo bird.
Frenchy,
I am interested in ICF's and SIPS
I just finished my first SIP house Design and started working with a builder who has ICF experience.
The problem is limited local role models (projects to observe)and local tradespeople to learn from. I am searching and welcome all advice.
homedesign,
How does the expression go? Lead follow or get the hell out of the way?
SIP's & ICF's are about as no brainer a construction methods as I can imagine.. For proof I offer myself as an example.. I've used both and haven't had a single issue.. I spent a long time deciding to use them but zero time actually studing how to install them.
ICF's are really like Giant Leggos and SIP"s only require a slightly differant approach to traditional stick framing.. The only reason they aren't universally used is there are a whole lot of experiance stick framing stuff and change is feared by most..
Frenchy,
I agree SIPS better than Stick, ICF better than Sip,
Metric better than Feet and Inches
homedesign,
I'm honestly sorry for the tone my post had, I meant to explain myself and offer suggestions but was interrupted before I could finish.
What I found invaluable was the videos/ instruction manuals that various venders offered. Without those I would have never tackled such new technology. Although most of it's not really new, simply gaining in public acceptance..
Those manuals and videos gave me the confidence to tackle the design aspect of the task and spending a day watching pros do it taught me enough about the practical application that I felt confident doing it myself..
Rewards forms were my supplier of ICF's and R control supplied my SIP's
I suggest that you contact them and have them send you a instruction booklet/ video.. They did free when I expressed interest and in turn I wound up using them after finding out that theirs were competitively priced. Not the cheapest but if they were that willing to help in the decision making part I felt confident in their help in use.. (turned out to be valid).
EEBA book says to run a 2 stud corner, with dry wall clips for the inside. Around here, 3 stud still seems to reign king. THe EEBA book is an interesting source, and has several editions depending on your climate.