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I need advice. I’m doing a remodel to a
utility room and changing it into a
bathroom, I have to fir out the studs
because the foundation wall below the
studs and sill, sticks in about 5″ of
the studs, I was told to use pressure
treated 2×6 because part of the wood
will touch the foundation and the slab
floor, no lumber yard will rip the 2×6
because of toxins, I really dont want to
for the same reason, consturction grade
redwood is not much more cost wise, my
question is how does it measure up as
far as touching the concrete to P.T. ,
and does it make a good stud
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Replies
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Paul use the PT. Take basic safty if your worried. Gloves,mask ect...ect...
*There has been no true foundation grade redwood in years. Pure heart redwood, with no white wood in it, might be ok. I'd use the PT. Use all the necessary safety precautions in cutting it.
*... and pt can't be all that deadly or the carpenters would be dropping like flies. Don't like it though... Ripping a 2x6 is not going to finish you off. Be more afraid of the saw.
*Just don't eat the sawdust or the ash from burnt pressure treated wood. It has enough arsenic in about one foot of board to kill quite a few people I've read recently. At least the old stuff. And don't put the ash in your vegetable garden or allow it on grazing land!Pure heartwood redwood is the only redwood approved for attachment to the foundation. Hard to get now. The yellow sapwood has little resistance to decay. Can you use metal, or 2x4 P.T. and cedar shims? Its a good Idea to paint the cut edges of P.T. material with copper napthanate or something like it, as the treatment usually only soaks in 1/2" perpendicular to the grain. Smells like an old army surplus store however.Am not sure I have the picture of how your new wall will fit in. We're not accustomed to full basements here. We do grow redwoods in this state however.
*redwoods, no basements ... Calif.? I didn't know you were WebTV, Gary, time to step up to a real ISP?A simple detail: put strips of 30 lb. tarpaper or bituminous membrane (WeatherWatch etc.) between wood and concrete as a capillary break. better yet, leave at least a 1" air gap. Steel would rust if there is moisture, and you must worry about fungus, mold, other noxious lovers of warm dark spaces no matter what. One write here reported opening up a damp wall to find a gigantic ... mushroom.I figured this out late in the game -- remember that water on basement walls, esp. in summer, may not be leakage but condensation from cooling inside air -- seal the interior wall well. Condensation accounts for most of the mustiness in our basement.If you are going to buy nice redwood don't stick it in a wall. I am really surprised that the lumberyards told you pt is dangerous -- according to the forest products industry the stuff is great, you just need to use the "ordinary precautions used when cutting all lumber." The contractor I briefly hired said it was just soaked in salt water. Ha. Arsenic, don't burn it ... yet all our garbage here is incinerated ... hmmm ...And there is a safer pt -- ACQ instead of CCA -- no arsenic. They have an 800 number on where to find ACQ.
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I need advice. I'm doing a remodel to a
utility room and changing it into a
bathroom, I have to fir out the studs
because the foundation wall below the
studs and sill, sticks in about 5" of
the studs, I was told to use pressure
treated 2x6 because part of the wood
will touch the foundation and the slab
floor, no lumber yard will rip the 2x6
because of toxins, I really dont want to
for the same reason, consturction grade
redwood is not much more cost wise, my
question is how does it measure up as
far as touching the concrete to P.T. ,
and does it make a good stud