Replies

1. 
   patfisher | Dec 17, 2008 01:18am | #1

   I believe the rule of thumb on hardwood floors is if you screen it, it will turn out to have different colors when you re-seal it, the best way is to see if you have enough material  above the tongue to re-sand it to a new surface. Generally sanding will remove up to 1/8 inch so if there isn't enough wood don't sand it, re-screen with 60grit and vacuum real good then screen with 100 grit and then apply your orignal sealer. Don't forget to scrap or sand the corners.

2. 
   JMadson | Dec 17, 2008 01:47am | #2

   How big is the floor?

    

1. 
   alwaysoverbudget | Dec 17, 2008 01:58am | #3

   i have a living room and 2 bdrms,probably 700 sf. larry

   if a man speaks in the forest,and there's not a woman to hear him,is he still wrong?

   Edited 12/16/2008 5:59 pm by alwaysoverbudget

3. 
   Joe Sullivan | Dec 17, 2008 03:06am | #4

   Whether or not you sand depends on condition. If they are, as you say, in really good shape, why not be sure there is no residual wax, give them a light screening to remove surface defects but not the patina, and go over it with clear shellac? I have several hundred sq ft of shellac-finished oak. It is very easy to apply, goes on over anything that is already there, looks good, and is exceptionally easy to repair.

   Joe

4. 
   andybuildz | Dec 17, 2008 03:16am | #5

   Depends on how much finish above the stain is on there now. If there's enough finish to fine screen the finish you should be ok. You don't mention how much floor you're doing but.........in  a house I owned years ago I actually put on knee pads and put some screening on my ROS and went over the floors quickly that way.I was able to control what I removed better then using a floor buffer with a screening pad. It actually didn't really take me all that long. I used a good water based poly and applied three coats. Came out mint and lasted for years.

    

    

    

    

   http://www.cliffordrenovations.com

   http://www.ramdass.org

    

5. 
   mrfixitusa | Dec 17, 2008 10:10pm | #6

   Larry, I was hoping someone would have a quick and easy way of redoing the floors.

   I think it's a mistake to just put more finish over damaged floors

   By damaged I mean the wood is scratched or there are black spots

   I have gotten on my hands and knees with a palm sander trying to make old floors look good and it just didn't work for me.

   Something I wanted to throw out is a quick and easy solution is to screen the existing finish but do not sand down far enough to hit the wood surface.

   Then apply a coat of shellac and see what you've got.

   If you don't like it, the shellac can be easily removed with some rags and a bucket of water & amonia

   Again, I have seen people just put another coat of finis over the 5-6 coats of old varnish and I think it looks pretty bad.

   Good luck!

1. 
   alwaysoverbudget | Dec 18, 2008 06:41am | #9

   this is the house i said i had coming up. when we pulled the carpet the floors are really in nice shape,except there are little marks the pad left,so i'd like to not sand them to bare wood. just give em a coat of poly and go on.larryif a man speaks in the forest,and there's not a woman to hear him,is he still wrong?

1. 
   jet | Dec 18, 2008 06:46am | #10

   I have used this product with a lot of success.

   http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=67

   Just read the instructions and see if it will work for you.

    

6. 
   Oakey | Dec 18, 2008 12:24am | #7

   I have done a few floors and what I would do is

   first, use a wax cutter liquid.you will see the floor

   get a flat unshined look to it . Then rent a U- Sand

   sander (pretty easy to use) if your floor is in really good

   shape, go 80, 100, 120. Then use an oil based floor varnish.

   Make sure you pop off your shoe moulds first, the U-Sand should get

   you pretty close to the base mould. Have at it !!

1. 
   mrfixitusa | Dec 18, 2008 12:54am | #8

   I wish I had used a brush to apply the finish to the outer perimeter and then follow behind that with the lambs wool applicatorI used the applicator only and it missed the outer edge - I didn't keep a proper "wet edge" the way you're supposed to.