Replies

1. 
   DANL | Mar 28, 2005 08:45pm | #1

   Wow, you have asked a question that would take a book to answer. I'd recommend looking to Taunton for books on floor refinishing. Depending on how bad the floor is, screening (using "sandpaper" that looks more like mesh or screen with a machine that has a vibrating pad that's about 12" x 16" or so) may work. If the floor is really dinged up, a drum sander may be necessary and those take some care so you don't go too deep. Once the main part of the floor is sanded (oh, be sure to set any nails that there may be before sanding) sand the edges with a small pad sander. Then stain and apply urethane after sweeping, vacuuming and going over with a tack rag. Give it about three coats of urethane. Most people sand lightly between coats (then tack ragging). Sometimes it's smooth enough, and if you apply the next coat within the time specified on the can, that you don't need to sand between coats.

   You can also search past discussion here or at the "Breaktime" forum and see what has been said on this subject previously (quite a lot, actually).

2. 
   wango | Apr 07, 2005 10:57pm | #2

   A couple of places to get started... Minwax has a pamphlet at Home Depot that gives the basics. There is also a video from Varathane that,while corny, gets the basics across.

   Another option would be a local hardwood supplier, alot of them rent equiptment and would then train you.

    

3. 
   DDay | Apr 15, 2005 12:53am | #3

   I would recommend having a pro do them.  The guy I use for hardwood charges $2 sq ft for refinishing and he is the best I've seen.  A middle of the road guy will be a little less.  The tools are not very easy to use and the finishing process is 2 to 3 coats and the finish is very toxic and not fun to breath.  If you want to do it yourself though, go to a hardwood supply house, not home depot.  The advice you'll get from HD people isn't worth the money you pay for it.  They get $7 an hour, I don't know any contractor with a clue that would work for less than $20 an hour.

1. 
   wallyo | May 03, 2005 09:57pm | #4

   There is a new sander out that is easy to use,  I refinish floors as part of my business and used it for the very first time, it was a cake walk.  Cherry hill manufacturing's SUPER BEE.  A four pad random orbit sander will even get the edges you can go any direction.

   As for the finish go water based Boni Kemi is what I use. You can go with the varathine H2O for floors, Home Depot has it they may have the sander too, some Depots are carrying it.  That my two bits worth.  There is more to it then this discussion will allow, go to the libary they may have a book or two  maybe a video.  That how I got started my libary had Tautons video on the subject.

   Last but not least between sanding and finishing vac, vac, vac get all the dust up. Also just because it is water based does not mean less toxic, wear protection, H2O based is easier to work with, smells less, dries faster more coasts in one day.

4. 
   Amasa | May 04, 2005 08:14pm | #5

   I'd also check the Fine Homebuilding article archive, I'm sure I saw something there at one point. 

5. 
   worthless | May 14, 2005 06:06am | #6

   i install and refinish hardwood floors.  th wood flooring manufactures association nofma.com is the bible on standards. screening (light sanding) is an easy but not premium option. sanding involves a drum or belt sander with progressively finer belts,in conjunction with an edger likewise grits around the perimiter followed by screening or vibrating sander.  vacuum/tack with clean not treated cloth. stain very carefullyto achive even look (natural needs no stain). apply 3 coats polyurethane. stick with one manufacturer for poly, no mix match of what is on hand. some waterbased is excellent also expensive, but a little tricker to apply. wear respirator for oil based poly. final coat can be gloss, semi gloss, satin. call me to fix your mess.

6. 
   kesac | May 24, 2005 08:15pm | #7

   It's not rocket science.  Make sure you clean off any wax prior to sanding.  They now have orbital floor sanders to rent, that work just fine.  You don't need the drum, and you don't want to start learning how to use it on your own floor with no one to help you out.

   Pull your baseboards off, and count on replacing them, unless you are better at saving trim pieces than most folks.

   Stay with the coarsest grit as long as you need to.  The finer grits make finer dust that gets up in the air, while the coarse dust will stay on the floor creating less mess, hazard, everything.

   They have some very good water based products out these days.  They work fine, except if you have some that is too thick and it doesn't want to flow out on you, I don't believe you can thin it very much without affecting how well it cures.

   Stain however you like.  Poly per the directions on the can as best you are able, and it will turn out beutifully.