Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 09, 1999 09:21pm | #1

   *
   Carole and Doug,

   Try posting this question in "Knots", the Fine Woodworking version of "Breaktime"

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   Guest_ | Dec 09, 1999 11:41pm | #2

   *I finished a lot of mahogany during my wooden boatbuilding years. I used filler stains at first, because "that's the way its done," but I didn't like adding color to that beautiful wood. Instead, I built up the surface with about six coats of varnish, sanding between each coat until I could no longer see the grain's texture. I agree that the process was be more labor intensive, but the quality of the finish covering the natural beauty of Honduras mahogany is, I think, superior to fewer coats of varnish over fillers.Recently, I've done the same with water-white lacquer sanding sealers, which don't have varnish's amber tone. Since I sprayed the lacquer, the process seemed pretty fast. And the clear coating really shows off the material's natural deep color.

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   Guest_ | Dec 10, 1999 07:12am | #3

   *Carole and Doug: I agree with Gary, having done miles of Boat Brightwork... with oil-based spar varnish.For furniture, you could choose a shellac, ranging from "Super Blonde" to "Orange", as any darker and you'll start to loose figure.Apply, sand... apply, sand... finishing with a "french polish" at the end. Taunton has a few books on finishing available should you need a better definition of technique.

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   Guest_ | Dec 10, 1999 10:43am | #4

   *For refinishing Mahog, I use a mixture composed of equal parts of turpentine, boiled linseed, and spar varnish. I am very pleased with the deep mirror finish. And boy, is it tough. And it doesn't craze, yellow, or hide the wood grain.The prep work includes sanding down to 400 grit and removing ALL dust. Whether brushed or sprayed, it needs to be done in a lint free area. For furniture, I simply close off a room in the house, after it has been vacuumed. Being somewhat the perfectionist--I'm recovering--I insist upon not jumping between grits.I have used this formula on antique furniture restoration and boat brightwork. I like George's reference to French polishing. I usually finish off all wood finishes this way. I use bee's wax mixed with turpentine.

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   Guest_ | Dec 12, 1999 06:36pm | #5

   *For raising the grain to make the surface level, nothing beats using steam. Mahogany grain is easy to raise compared to some hardwoods. I use a large old fashioned soldering iron with a 5/8" four way tip and a rag that is just a little more than damp. Place the rag over the area that is depressed and use the iron to create the steam. Fold the rag over to have several damp layers. Apply the iron directly to the cloth but not with much pressure. Keep it moving slightly. This is very time consuming but works. I have even taken burn marks out this way by raising the grain enough to sand out the defect. Never tried it but wondered if it would work to use a damp cloth and a steam iron.?.? Gotta do that one of these days.