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Our kitchen has 14-year-old natural oak cabinets. Nice looking, but a builders grade with a very thin oak veneer. Unfortunately, the look of the finish is deteriorating. Presumably it is the result of cooking and UV exposure. The surface has a dry look and feel; definitely not as smooth or glossy as when new. It somewhat appears as if the wood pores are opening up. I definitely don’t want to replace or refinish the cabinets. A new coat of polyurethane might work, but with 14 years of cooking oils over an unknown base, I am not at all convinced that it would adhere. Any good ideas?
Thanks,
Larry
Replies
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Try useing a cleaner like TSP with 0000 steel wool then try the poly that should do it.
*I'm not sure what you mean when you say the look of the finish is deteriorating. If you just mean it is looking old and dull I'd try a good furniture polish. That seems to work pretty good in a lot of cases and you don't risk going through the veneer.If that doesn't work then I'd go the TSP steel wool route.
*not...do not use anything but steel wool. tsp and what? water? can't be serious.when your done with the steel wool, there will be marks. you probably also have scratches in the finish/wood. the only satisfactory solution we ever found was danish oil finish in as close a color to your existing finish. no refinishing required.brian
*Clean with turpentine first, then the Danish oil.
*piffin's got it, turpentine/paint thinner to clean kit. dirt, then new finish coat. we did this a few months ago (though we sanded/stained to match for the worst pieces). good results.GO
*Another product that I've used with very good results is Howards'Finish Restorer, which cleans and disolves some of the orig. finish using steel wool and kinda melts it all together into a fresh finish. Comes in diff. wood colors. You can top with wax or any new finish. I like it 'cause you usu. don't have to strip or sand, and often just wax and you're done. -Ken
*ken,what's are the main ingredients in that restorer? does it say?brian
*moms told me equal parts turpintine, white vinager, linseed oil- have had good luck with this mix
*Brian- Toluene.
*Read the labels! Wear gloves, etc., etc.,b especiallyfor the Howards'Finish Restorer if it's got toluene in it.Rich Beckman
*and i thought toluene was a banned substance is paint products these days, or is this a CA thing? a respirator wouldn't be a bad idea when using toluene products. at least work in a ventilated area if the Restorer is used.back to my recommendation...steel wool and danish oil finish (use Deft products here). other guys recommended cleaning first with turpentine or thinner. do this between the steel wool rubbing and the oil finish application. technically, the danish oil finishes do not require a polyurethane overcoat. i always finish with polyurethane anyway (i prefer satin finish appearance). in fact, read labels on your danish oil selections. some specify that poly not be used on top of their products.brian
*Brian- I've used a lot of the Danish oil finishes, usually Watco. Seems like it needs refreshing periodically, as the color seems to fade somewhat. What's your spin on this? .............As for Toluene, like a whole lot of products with nasty ingredients, Calif. is listed on the warnings. Howard's in fact is located in Paso Robles, Ca.
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Our kitchen has 14-year-old natural oak cabinets. Nice looking, but a builders grade with a very thin oak veneer. Unfortunately, the look of the finish is deteriorating. Presumably it is the result of cooking and UV exposure. The surface has a dry look and feel; definitely not as smooth or glossy as when new. It somewhat appears as if the wood pores are opening up. I definitely don't want to replace or refinish the cabinets. A new coat of polyurethane might work, but with 14 years of cooking oils over an unknown base, I am not at all convinced that it would adhere. Any good ideas?
Thanks,
Larry