I’m planning to finish my basement and I want to put a wall in front of the 6 foot oil tank which would make it hard to remove the oil tank if I ever needed to replace it. One idea is to put big double doors in front of the tank. Another idea was paneling instead of drywall which would be easier to remove.
Any other good ideas about how to leave access or build a wall so that it is at least somewhat “removable”?
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Replies
I've seen temporary walls held in place with double stick 'em tape in place for a long time with no problems. Just a thought. Doors make more sense, if they are big enough.
Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
I hadn't thought of double stick 'em tape, but I was leaning towards something more substantial. Yes, the doors would be conspicuously big to be able to get out a 6 foot tank, which is part of the reason I am looking for other ideas.
Build the wall like a swinging gate, use to push rods at the swinging end to hold it, add the trim after it is in position. If you ever need to move it, just remove the trim and furniture and swing it out of the way. More push rods could be added in the middle is you need more stability. You could even put a lever action wheel on the swing end.
That's a great idea! It could be as big as necessary. Thanks.
I'd consider just building the wall more or less normally, only use double plates, top and bottom. Only fasten the top top plate and the bottom bottom plate (if you can parse that), and lightly screw the other plates into place (maybe with some shims installed to maintain wiggle room.
Only finish the one side and you can remove the screws from the other side to remove the wall. Use something lighter than drywall for the surface, and use pieces of trim on the ends where the seams are.
The wall can be removed and dragged into a corner if access is needed.
A variation on this would be to install hinges on one end and put a caster under the other so the wall can swing, but in that case you need to be careful of ceiling and floor clearance.
happy?
Thanks for your ideas. When you say, "lighter than drywall", do you mean quarter inch plywood, panelling, or something else?
code.. i'd build the wall as if it were never going to be moved..
under what circumstance would you replace the oil tank ?... when would that happen ?..probably not in your lifetime.. and..
if it did.. not a big deal anyways... take out two studs.. take out the tank..
or worst case... take the wall down, and put it back up.. either way... no sweat
we often convince ourselves to build for the worst case, but the chances of worst case are pretty slimMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Mike, thanks for the words of wisdom. I agree that it is very unlikely that I'll ever want to take out the tank, and even though the tank is probably very old, it looks like new condition to me.But, unfortunately, even though I am sure you are right, I have a habit of never passing up an opportunity to overbuild or overplan something!
(I originally posted this in reply to Mike by mistake, so I reposted it to codehorse)
A simple way to have it both ways is this:
Construct the wall normally, with studs and drywall - EXCEPT:
1. Use screws to toenail the studs into the plates - these will be easily backed out in the future if you need to, and you wont destroy any of those studs. Don't bother sinking the heads on a toenail. BTW, since this is just and interior non load bearing wall that doesn't need to be completed in 30 seconds or less, I don't thing anybody needs to go balistic about using screws for framing JUST THIS ONCE ;)
2. When you put up the drywall board, use just a couple of screws to tack it into place. After everything is up, lay out a regular grid of EXACTLY where each screw should be. Say, if it is near the edge, it will be exactly 1" from the nearest wall, and they will be spaced EXACTLY 16" apart on a stud, and the field ones will be spaced EXACTLY 32" apart. Now, snap that grid with a chalkline making sure everything is square and level. The idea here is that you should know with a tape measure exactly where each and every screw in that wall is, and if you find on screw you will be able to find every other screw as well. Drive the screws into your marks, then take and old candle or stick of parafin wax and grind it into the screw head recess. The wax will come out much easier than old hard drywall mud.
From this point, you can tape, mud, and finish as normal. If you want to do yourself a favor, you can draw yourself a map of the measurements and where the seams are, then stick it in an empty outlet box with a blank cover.
I did a version of this myself recently in my garage. I had to put a ton of stuff under a firewall that I anticipate needing to change later, so i made a panel system that could be removed at a later date. Since it was pretty irregular, each fastener has a big washer making it easy to find with a magnet later on. Pictures will help later too.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
to Mike and Codehorse - don't take it for granted that you will never have to move the tank, or that because it looks in good condition it will still be usable, even if old. We had to remove the one in our house as a condition of sale, (it was 32 yrs old) and it was a beggar to move. The replacement is now outside and screened - albeit still ugly. Insurance Co's are now wanting no inside tanks - can you imagine what 600 agllons of fuel looks like in a finished basement?
IIWY I'd try to replace and relocate it elsewhere if you can - or before your ins co demands it.All the best...
To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.
Practically anything is lighter than drywall. But 1/4" or 3/8" paneling or painted plywood, eg. Don't use OSB -- heavier than lead -- but I'm remembering that homosote is supposed to be light.Actually, plywood with a vinyl wallcovering (prime first) might look right nice.
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
I'm with Mike on this, but if you just can't stand to ignore it, go ahead and replace the tank now before you build the wall.
Alternately, I pretty sure I could rip out a rock and stud wall and patch it back in with new rock in so little time that it would never be worthwhile to do any sort of "removeable wall" building.
I've never seen a wall that wasn't removeable!
Our ancestors killed mastadons with pointy sticks!
Good point and well said. Thanks.
"I've never seen a wall that wasn't removeable!"
I was thinking the exact same thing.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
I've never done it before but lets pretend that I know what I'm talking about.Put in a top and bottom plate without studs. Get two sheets of 3/4 MDF or plywood of choice, cut to size, apply crown/base moldings, and paint/varnish to taste. Glue 1 1/2 inch wide Velcro(the good stuff) to the top and bottom of plates and panels. Line up and press. If you don't hang anything heavier than a picture or two of the Mother in Law, it will stay up forever. Park big Projection TV in front (to cover the pictures) and enjoy.
I can say that the hole I once cut through a ten inch reinforced concrete wall had me wondering if it would ever be over. It was a two car garage door sized hole. Made such a great sound when it fell over in one piece!++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Our ancestors killed mastadons with pointy sticks!
In a recent This Old House article, Tom Silva uses a temporary wall made of a pine frame with a homosote panel, with furniture levelers to keep the wall in place. See http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/knowhow/adding/article/0,16417,199843,00.html
Al Smith