Replies

1. 
   UncleDunc | Mar 06, 2004 06:45am | #1

   Is there room for a chisel plane?

2. 
   NickNukeEm | Mar 06, 2004 07:24am | #2

   As the Unk suggested, at this point, a chisel is a good tool to have and use.  Make sure it is sharp; it slices thru the glue easier. 

   There are different opinions on when to remove glue, but waiting until it cures isn't one that I've heard of.  Often I will wait until the stuff skins over, then use a scraper to peel the stuff off.  Sometimes I dampen a sponge and get rid of it right away.  The problem with water is that it will raise the grain, but you're probably gonna have to sand the piece anyway. 

   Inside corners are the pits, and I attack those while the glue is wet, using scrapers, razor blades, whatever will remove the stuff, then follow up with a light scrubbing to remove any residue.  Sanding to follow when all is dry, but that's where the Fein Multimaster earns its keep.

   Good luck.

   I never met a tool I didn't like!
1. 
   Sphere | Mar 06, 2004 03:41pm | #3

   actually yer in luck...maple is one wood that is dense enough to not absorb excess glue too badly...walnut and Oak on the other hand...as been said above..a razor sharp well aimed chisel.

   Don't be all anal about it..a little glue exposed lets some know-it-all know that ya glued it well.

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   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations. 

2. 
   UncleDunc | Mar 06, 2004 08:21pm | #5

   >> As the Unk suggested, at this point, a chisel is a good tool to have and use.

   Actually, I was suggesting a chisel plane, like these two, not just a chisel. (Although I certainly agree with you about having and using chisels.)

   http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/prodimg/kt/reg/KT-CHISPL.gif

   http://www.stjamesbaytoolco.com/images/chisel.gif

   >> Sometimes I dampen a sponge and get rid of it right away. The problem with water is that

   >> it will raise the grain ...

   The other problem with a wet sponge is that the water will dilute the glue, making it easier for it to soak into the wood, and the sponge will spread the diluted glue around, contaminating more wood than if you just left the glue till it gets rubbery.

   Edited 3/6/2004 12:25:12 PM ET by Uncle Dunc

1. 
   NickNukeEm | Mar 06, 2004 09:53pm | #6

   I reread your reply after I had posted, I saw the difference, but it was too late, yada-yada-yada.  Never used the tool, though, don't even have one.

   And you're not the only one to caution about a damp sponge diluting the glue.  But I've never had the problem.  I use a damp sponge or cloth, not a wet one.  But, like you, whenever possible, I wait till it sets up to the point it can be pretty much scraped off in one piece, for yellow glue, I give it an hour, maybe a little more.

   There are other tricks for inside corner glueing, including taping the pieces at the glue line.  Never tried it, though.  Sometimes I prefinish everything and the glue doesn't take to the finish well (I leave some bare wood for adhesion.)

   Thanks.  I may have to take another look at that chisel plane.  I'm always open to changing old ways, especially if new tools are part of the equation.

   I never met a tool I didn't like!

1. 
   BillHartmann | Mar 07, 2004 07:22am | #8

   You can also coat the exposed surface with paste wax.

   Then after you are done clean it off with MS.

1. 
   MarkH | Mar 07, 2004 08:34pm | #9

    

   You can also coat the exposed surface with paste wax.

   Then after you are done clean it off with MS.

   MS who? Miter saw? Mud scraper? Mentholated Spirits? 

   Possibly it can be disolved with goof off or vinegar, or boiling water. Teast on a scrap first. Sanding may melt the glue forcing it into the fibers. On the other hand a heat gun may loosen it up.

   Oh I figured out what MS is! Mineral spirits. I just couldn't get it at first. I doubt if it works, but I never tried it.

2. 
   BillHartmann | Mar 07, 2004 08:55pm | #10

   "MS who? Miter saw? Mud scraper? Mentholated Spirits?"

   Martha Stewart. Since you will be in jail I understand that prison labor is real cheap.

   Actually I ment mineral spirits and I see that my message was not clear. The MS is to remove the paste wax. The excess glue just snaps off as the wax prevents it from attaching to the wood.

3. 
   gdavis62 | Mar 08, 2004 01:38am | #12

   Martha, now that you have been convicted, will you change your screen name?

3. 
   mikeys | Mar 06, 2004 06:45pm | #4

   Sharp chisel. For future reference I'm a big believer in always having a damp rag handy when gluing. I wipe up immediately after assembly.

   Smile. It could be worse. You could be me working for you.

4. 
   bill_1010 | Mar 07, 2004 01:23am | #7

   card scraper or a triangle cartbide scraper for the tiny spots.   Scrapers shave the wood instead of abrading them. 

   Luckily maple isnt a porous wood so the glue hasnt soaked up too deep unlike pines and oaks.  

   well tuned block planes work, but card scrapers are your best bet IMO.

5. 
   whoover | Mar 07, 2004 11:28pm | #11

   Acetone will often desolve cured white and yellow glues.  Go to your local paint store and get a can and then rub hard with a clean rag.  I have had great success with this in the past.

   good luck,

   Bill