The tub is an old acrylic or fiberglass tub that is in a tiled alcove (surrounded on 3 sides) The job is to replace that tub with a new porcelin steel tub.
I’ll want to remove as few wall tiles as possible. Will remove only the row that butts into the top of the tub on the three sides, and continue to remove the row along the walls that are in plane with the fore and aft side of the tub – then I can slide it out of the alcove and tilt it up. Tile is applied to green board sheet rock, I don’t care if I break any tiles or not, they can easily be matched. Tiles appear to be very sound, i.e., none are loose and no sign of water damage whatsoever.
The problem I don’t know about is how will I repair sheet rock damage that may happen during tile removal. I may end up tearing some paper or gougeing into the rock.
Can I use Durhams Water Putty to smoocth the surface and tile directly to that?
All ideas welcome. Thanks.
Replies
However you get the tub issue dealt with is ok by me, but don't use a steel tub. Get yourself an Americast tub by American Standard, you'll be glad you did.
What is an Americast tub and what are its benefits?
> What is an Americast tub and what are its benefits?Unlike Chinacast it won't give you warts.
The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
> What is an Americast tub and what are its benefits?Unlike Chinacast it won't give you warts.- or tarnish copper plumbing
> What is an Americast tub and what are its benefits? Unlike Chinacast it won't give you warts. - or tarnish copper plumbing
Bwaaa haaa haaa.... Good one! =D
http://www.americanstandard-us.com/searchResults.aspx?k=americast
~ Ted W ~
Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netMeet me at House & Builder!
Edited 4/14/2009 9:13 pm by Ted W.
It's a quality product that won't rust, steel will. Quiet, light, good value at maybe $230 the last time I checked. Americast is a man-made composite.
Edited 4/13/2009 8:09 pm ET by Pelipeth
When should I expect our 32-year-old steel tub to start rusting?
The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
When should I expect our 32-year-old steel tub to start rusting?
Any minute now. =)~ Ted W ~
Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netMeet me at House & Builder!
It's been rusting since the day it was manufactured, and isn't it about time you remodeled that bath? 95% of all cast iron, drop in sinks I encounter are rusting at the rim/counter top contact. Yea, I know yours is steel.
The sink is Corian, seamless countertop/sink.
The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
We have an Americast tub, and we like it. It is made of steel. You can get a repair kit, for free, from American Standard just by calling them or e-mailing. Go to their web site for this.
I second the Americast tub. Its a great tub. The benefit is the gel coating on the back side that quiets the tub and holds heat.
If this tile is really on green board, i'd strongly recommend starting over.
Family.....They're always there when they need you.
Edited 4/13/2009 4:43 pm ET by MSA1
Do you know if its possible or practical to repair chips on Americast? We have an Americast kitchen sink that's about 10 yrs old that has some dings. It was installed vs. SS because it had a profile that was friendly to the ADA kitchen we were putting in.
There is a color matched filler available for the Americast product. BTDT.
I've tried the porcelain repair product that comes in the little jars on conventional porcelain, but I haven't really been happy with the results. I think that Americast is basically porcelain, but it doesn't seem to have quite the durability of conventional porcelain.
I also have an Americast sink that's about 10 years old. It's holding up ok, but it does have some nicks and scratches. When it bothers me enough, I plan on just replacing the entire sink. The one I have only costs about $125.
I think we did chip one once in a house I flipped a while back. We got an enamel repair kit to fill in the chip. I'm not gonna lie to you, I would've been happier had my guy not dropped a 12" tile on the tub, it certainly was not a perfect fix. Try calling the company. I cant remember if I did or if we just bought a repair kit.
Family.....They're always there when they need you.
I'd probably use setting-type ("hot") drywall mud to smooth off the drywall, or maybe an exterior spackle. Have never used Water Putty to know if it's appropriate or not.
The other option is to go ahead and cut away the drywall and replace it, but it's a little tricky making a joint between old and new with the tile in the way. Best I can think of is to toe-screw blocks behind the joint, with some construction adhesive to bond the block to the existing DW.
Is this your own house, or someone elses? I wouldn't touch that job on a bet if it was a paying engagement. If it hasn't leaked yet, it's a miracle, and it's sure to leak after you R&R the tile & DW. Then it's YOUR problem.
If it was me, I'd refuse to do any less than a proper rebuild of the surrounding wall - vapor barrier, cement board or, preferably, Kerdi, and tile. And, like another poster stated, if at all possible, stay away from steel tubs.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Sorry, I posted my reply to pelipeth(?) It shouldnt be too hard repairing the green board but i'll say it again. It would be best to get that stuff out of there and redo the whole enclousure. Value beats cost any day. We waste time fixing a blow-out? Just replace the whole tire.
If its in the budget, get the green board out of there.
Family.....They're always there when they need you.
Thanks for so many replies so fast! This is a client job and the budget is tight. The point about inheriting all future problems is a good one. After some quick thought, I will recommend that Americast tub upgrade, keep the same tile strategy and caveat the heck out of the contract. If tile problems arise, we can negotiate a full tile renovation later when her financial situation is better.Thanks. Great ideas all around!
I've done a few of those before learning my lesson. What you're doing takes just as long as doing it right. The only money they're saving is on materials, and possibly paying you less to do a lesser quality job, even though it takes just as long.
I won't say I wouldn't do it, because the fact is I can't afford to walk away from any paying job these days. But see if you can get them to go with replacing the drywall with durock, and of course the tile. Everybody will be happier.
~ Ted W ~
Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.net
Meet me at House & Builder!