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My 12v “Extra-Run” Dewalt T-handle cordless 3/8″ driver/drill seems to be giving up the ghost. Little torque even with fresh battery charge, starts intermitently, sometimes runs if you hold the trigger and turn the chuck by hand.
Opened the case and brushes seem OK. Put it back together and it ran better for a little while then got worse.
Didn’t have time or shop conditions to really take it apart and couldn’t find my parts list / schematic.
With the investment in original drill, batteries, charger, metal case and two new batteries, I hate to just toss it or buy a whole new kit. How serviceable are these tools and how economically? Interested in any experiences.
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How much does a new one cost? How much to repair what you have? If you are happy with what you have and it costs less(including loss of use time) then repair, otherwise pitch and buy a new one. If repaired by one of the B&D/DeWalt repair centres they are just as good as new in my experience.
*Have you checked the charger AND the battery? Makesure they are doing their jobs. Check all the connections and switches too.
*Thanks, your analysis is what I'm trying to assemble. New kits are the same they were 5 years ago, $189 at HD or other discounter. Only need the bare drill and haven't been able to price that yet.The nearest B&D/DeW center is 2 hours away. There is an authorized dealer repair center closer, but haven't gotten to price repairs either. My sense is they have a look/see minimum charge and you don't know what you're in for till they take it apart.I was wondering what experiences people have had with repair costs or particular failures with this tool. Motor? Switches? Electronics?
*My >3 year old DeWalt 14.4V/1/2" chuck/15 minute charge cordless drill/driver recently suffered a similar phenomenon: intermittent response to trigger pulls.I disassembled, blew out with air nozzle, cleaned trigger and battery electrical contact points with IPA (isopropyl alcohol, aka "rubbing" alcohol, aka isopropanol) and my drill has not failed since the cleanup.If you don't have IPA handy, you might use a face-cleaning pad (like Noxema or Clearasil brands).I suspect that DeWalt might not endorse this action, but if you have already disassembled your drill, you are probably not reluctant to try the extra step of a simple solvent cleaning.
*Thanks. I had taken it apart again and went a little deeper. I was getting 12v out of the switch. Turned out one brush was good and the other about 3/4 gone. It had been developing heat under load. Authorized repair center thought it sounded like a bad armature. Just called them yesterday and it was just making it to the bench for diagnosis and a repair estimate. Waiting to hear.
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friend of mine had his 18 volt die. went to the authorized repair center and walked out with a reconditioned drill for $99
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MY 12 VOLT 3/8" DRL/DRVR HAS ONLY ONE PROBLEM THAT I CAN SEE-IT WORKS HARD AND LASTS NO MATTER WHAT TORQUE I USE. IT HAS ONE PROBLEM THAT I MUST REALLY COMPLAIN ABOUT THOUGH, THE FORWARD AND REVERSE BUTTON HAS BROKEN ON ME TWICE THUS FAR AND IT'S GETTING TO BE A PAIN. THE FIRST TIME I CANNIBALIZED AN OLD DRL/DRVR THAT WAS GIVEN TO ME, NOW I GUESS I'LL FIND OUT WHAT IT WILL COST ME TO HAVE ONE REPAIRED. I'LL GET BACK TO YOU
*where is the best place to buy a factory re-built 12 volt cordless dewalt drill? i live in ca, mail order ok.
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My 12v "Extra-Run" Dewalt T-handle cordless 3/8" driver/drill seems to be giving up the ghost. Little torque even with fresh battery charge, starts intermitently, sometimes runs if you hold the trigger and turn the chuck by hand.
Opened the case and brushes seem OK. Put it back together and it ran better for a little while then got worse.
Didn't have time or shop conditions to really take it apart and couldn't find my parts list / schematic.
With the investment in original drill, batteries, charger, metal case and two new batteries, I hate to just toss it or buy a whole new kit. How serviceable are these tools and how economically? Interested in any experiences.