Need some advice on a remodelling project. I’m removing two gas wall heaters and need to patch the 60″ x 14″ wall openings. The wall is plaster and consists of 1/2″ plaster board (?) with another 1/2″ of plaster over that.
What’s the best way to make this repair? I was thinking of two sheets of cement board and then some type of thin plaster. Have done drywall but never plastered. Is there something available at the local HD or Lowe’s that will work? Any advice would be appreciated.
Edited 6/4/2004 1:39 pm ET by andy
Replies
Keep it simple and use 2 layers of drywall, skimmed with joint compound. It's very forgiving and so easy to sand any mistakes. Be sure to tape the seams/ edges. Prime with alkyd (oil based) prmer.
F
Thanks, it will certainly be easier to work with drywall. Just hope the compound finish will match up and look like the surrounding plaster.
Andy - When I've done this I use the powered mud mixes AKA "setting" (right guys?), 20 minute stuff. It dries harder than the premixed stuff. There is also something that can be painted over the plaster to stop it from crumbling as you work the new stuff on. Check the shelves at HD.
MartinHeads I win, tails you lose.
Thanks, Martin. I'm a big fan of the 20 minute set - saves a lot of time. I'll look around for a product that will help solidify the ragged plaster ends.
"I'll look around for a product that will help solidify the ragged plaster ends."
If possible, it is easier to cut the plaster nice and flush to the edge of the next stud, then sister blocking onto the stud to back up the new drywall. As a bonus, with this method, you can also block each stud you span to adjust for a change in thickness if the drywall stack does not match up to the plaster.
Easier and neater than attempting to cut up the center of the stud, or position blocking in the 'field'.
Edited 6/7/2004 4:03 pm ET by csnow
Thanks. That's exactly what I did. The great trick I stumbled across was ripping a bit off the sistered stud and then setting it back (or moving it forward) a bit from the edge of the adjoining/existing stud so that I could adjust for variations in the plaster wall thickness. Another learn-by-doing lesson.
I just did some walls, (plaster veneer,rock lath) where I removed some other walls and ceiling butted up to them. They were 3/4 plus thick. Shimmed with 1/4 ply then 1/2 DW and used the setting compound for the first two coats then reg drywall mud. Fine job for a non plaster/drywaller.(however time will be the real judge!)
How big a wall?
easiest to me to gut the plaster & lath and drywall instead of wavy wall.
remodeler
The hole was left when I removed a heater. - about 65" x 14". I reframed the hole and patched it with drywall today and it looks like it will work fine. I agree with yanking the plaster if you want to replace the whole wall, but this hole wasn't too big. Thanks for your help.