I’m looking at a project that entails many things, including possibly the replacement of single hung aluminum framed windows. The house is about 15 yo, single story, good condition, stone veneer exterior, sheetrock interior, sheetrock returns on the windows. I have only looked at the house once, and of course didn’t note every detail, so although I’ll give as much info as possible, some questions will have to go unanswered. On the advice of a professional I have decided to pose the question here to see what the consensus is.
HO wants to upgrade the cosmetics of the house, to make it a little more formal. Curretnly it is a simple, but well built, ranch house that serves as their weekend retreat, and as they approach retirement they want to consider this to be the primary house. It has very little in the way of trim (no crown, chair rail, etc) just wood base and painted walls. One thought is to repolace the windows with wood units, possibly with wood trim, to take away a little of the starkness. I can’t tell you what happens on the outside, but I think the stone returns to the frames. The walls appear unusually thick, the HO said they are 18″ and he could be close. There is an interior jamb about 6″ deep, and the windows are recessed several inches from the exterior face of the stone. I’m going back out this week so will be able to get more info.
So the question is…where can I find some reliable information on replacing windows? Does anyone remember an article in one of the mags that dealt with this? Is there a decent book available? Does one of the mfgrs have good information? I’m crazy enough and motivated enough to try this myself, given some decent guidance.
Do it right, or do it twice.
Replies
Get close up photos to post, inside and out plus some that show the overal style of the house. Adding window casings to get stylish is an exciting idea but the wrong kind can make it feel unbalanced and uncomfortable. Maybe even some wainscoting in a room or two.
If these windows are in good shape, the dressing up could even be done without removing them - or maybe even find out what manufacturers - and see if they have retro fit sashes with insulated glass and wood interior veneers. Never can tell.
Excellence is its own reward!
So far we have had one meeting, and it went well. A very broad-brush conceptual meeting...here's what we don't like about the house (they have had it for 10 yrs), here's some ideas we have, what do you think, we're very open to suggesstions, etc. The windows are just bland, dark bronze aluminum s/h double pane with divided lite bars between the panes. The windows are just a part of the story, and may turn out to be just a footnote. If the inside jambs are cased, maybe add crown, wainscoting, who knows, then they might stay. But in the interest of getting a complete picture of options, I want to explore what is involved in replacing them.
There's a lot going for this project: personal referral from a very close friend with impeccable credentials, clients have adequate funds, not their primary residence so they have agreed to vacate and stay away for the duration, etc. I made it clear up front that I'm not a designer and I don't choose colors, they're ok with that, they want me to provide technical and cost inputs. You're right that the wrong selection of trim and other details can be a disaster, so I'm staying away from that part.
One funny note: as we were walking through the house looking at things, they pointed to two round objects in the living room carpet and asked if I knew what they were. Floor outlets! Tarnished brass screw-in covers that had not ben removed in the 10 yrs they had owned the place.
Do it right, or do it twice.
More than likely, the windows have nailing fins that were applied to the sheathing prior to the stone veneer. Taking them out and replacing with new wood windows would entail removing the stone to get at the fins- unless you wanted to shrink the openings and set new windows inside the current stone dimensions (bleah...).
As Piffin said, it may be possible to get replacement sashes in wood, but it's doubtful. If the windows seem to be well-constructed, I'd leave them alone and just doll up the inside.
Is this the same house you're looking at the stained concrete for? The project seems to be growing steadily....
Bob
"Taking them out and replacing with new wood windows would entail removing the stone to get at the fins"
No it won't. Aluminum window frames will pull out easily, without removing brick or stone.
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Barry E
Edited 4/28/2003 8:30:41 AM ET by Barry E
OK, so assuming you can rip the old frames out, how do you set the new windows, without shrinking the openings (and hence the windows), and having to re-case the exterior to cover the new fins?
Bob
Would be some ifs here, but if I didn't want to lose the width of the nailing fins, I would most likely use wood replacement windows.
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Barry E
Is this the same house you're looking at the stained concrete for? The project seems to be growing steadily.... Yep, same project, but I haven't told half of it yet. All the carpet comes out, except the bedrooms. Replace with hard surface material (tile, engineered wood, stained concrete, not decided yet). All new appliances in kitchen, convert upper cabinet doors from raised panel to glass inserts, paint all cabinet fronts, new countertops (probably stainless). Gussy up the windows and interior trim, probably add crown. Sand off wall texture (or however, see other thread) and make walls smooth painted finish. Replace 3'x4' picture window over master tub with glass block. Demo wall-to-wall bathroom mirrors (very tacky), add beadboard and chair rail. Bathroom fixtures and countertops (cultured marble) to remain (gotta cut costs somewhere). As the meeting was winding down and we're heading out, husband says phase 2 will be to convert garage to office for him...why do you need an office dear?...because...ok, we'll talk later. Step out the front door and realize there is a large (10x15) porch adjacent to the front door, completely covered by the existinfg roof, wouldn't be much of a problem to convert a window to a door, add exterior walls & windows...voila! So that may be part of the project too.
Do it right, or do it twice.
Went and talked with my local Anderson rep, got a nice 250 pg catalog and some advice. He said to pull the old windows out as best I can, probably ripping off the nailing fin, or tearing them loose from the nails. Then measure the opening and buy the closest series 400 tilt'n'wash that is available, stick it in the opening, shim as needed, run a couple (he said 4) screws through the window frames into the jambs (they will be concealed by the tracks), caulk and enjoy. He said to get within 3 inches of the opening size! That seems like a lot of slop, but he said a little trim on the outside will coiver the gap. I can see leaving a total of maybe one inch to allow for plumbing and adjustiong, but more than that seems sloppy.
Do it right, or do it twice.
Might want to take the masonry opening sizes to a Marvin or Kolbe&Kolbe dealer and price some custom clad over wood units. New windows will be ready to slide in place neatly as you rip apart the old aluminum units. Leaves no exposure to the elements.
"Filled & Shimmed" masonry openings yell "RETROFIT" as you drive by. Go for the custom units and enhance your professional image and please your customer.
..................Iron Helix
Well, he was being honest at least. Said they will make absolutely any size, but to save money I should try for a stock unit. Like I said, I don't mind stock, as long as it's within about 1/2".
Do it right, or do it twice.
this is one where the cistomer will be happier with Marvin, IMO.
Excellence is its own reward!
why, oh great sage?Do it right, or do it twice.
Custom sizing and better millwork than Andersen.
Sage isn't all that great. I like cinnamon better..
Excellence is its own reward!