Hello:
I’m looking to replace the carpeted stairs in my 10 year old house with hardwood and am looking for any hints/tips/gotchas to look out for during this process (I searched the site and did not come up with anything.)
Some background: The existing stairs are carpet over 3/4″ plywood treads (and ply risers) over three site built stringers. The treads butt against a skirtboard (not routed into) and are exposed on the other (one-side open staircase.) I’ll also be replacing the newel posts and balusters (post to post system, height and spacing to code.)
I’ve never done any interior stair work but am quite familiar with other trim work.
My questions:
– When installed on this type of stringer, does the tread /riser need to be recessed into a routed/cut channel in the wall skirtboard, or is butting common practice?
– Glue and nail the oak treads to the stringers (from the top) or fasten differently? (Under stair access is limited.)
– Are treads face nailed through to the riser below, or only directly to stringers? Are any other mechanical connections good practice for installing treads relative to risers (biscuits?)
– Do I need to keep anything in mind in terms of minimizing future squeaks?
– Finally, how long should I let the treads/risers acclimate to the house before installing (if there is a wait period at all for stairs?)
Any answers to questions I have not asked are welcome too! Thanks very much for any insight you can offer.
Chad
Replies
I replaced a similar setup in my house a few years ago. My treads were VG fir, though. I replaced them with 5/4 oak I made up myself.
I just butted the ends, and plan on caulking/moulding the edge (note the future tense.....this project is a perfect example of the 85% rule).
I used construction adhesive on each tread, and drilled/countersunk screws through each tread into the stringers. Plugs in the countersink holes.
I put new risers in after all treads were in place. Had to fit some to taper a bit (risers a bit off, I think).
No squeaks at all.
Chad,
When I read your post I assumed the skirts would stay in place, so that's how I'll continue. A sawzall works well to remove the existing treads & risers with minimal damage to the stringers.
With the skirts in place you can butt the new boards to them. The trick is to get nice cuts on the treads so there are now unsitely gaps where teh two meet. That is a huge reason why it is always a bonus to rout a new skirt to accept the treads and risers, as a previous poster mentioned. You figure the amount of labor involved for either process and compare. Depends on your skills. I use the Stair Wizard, a template tool that make a nice copy of each tread and riser for nice, clean butt lines. Many others have posted their ideas for creating their own jigs. A search might find those. I was lazy and had the cash at the time.
I have had good luck using plenty of subfloor glue and nails. One carpy I know relies too much on glue and only uses a brad nail to hold the tread in place 'til the adhesive sets. I might go overkill, but here's my method:
Cut, fit, and nail the riser in place with plenty of glue and some brads. I like to go one step at a time. Riser in place, Cut and fit the tread and reach behind and under to mark a line against the stringer. Remove the tread and place upside down on a table or horses. Glue and screw 9" 2x2 blocks along the line adjacent to the stringer to the bottom side of the tread. Apply liberal amounts of glue to the top and side of the stringer, basically so the tread and blocks have plenty of mated surface glued area. You can either nail the tread through the top and fill the hole, or reach behind and under and actually screw the block to the stringer. I have done this when it was pretty important to have invisible fasteners. It is possible to reach behind and under to screw this together. You develop a system after a while. Also, be sure to get some glue between the tread and where it bumps the riser, and nail or screw from behind.
I'm sure there are plenty of different ways. This is the one I have become very accustomed to with wonderful results.
I have never been fortunate to try routing the stairs into a skirt. Maybe someday.
I get paid to do carpentry. That makes me a professional.
If I work on my own house does that make me a DIY?
Thanks guys - your help is appreciated.The skirtboards will be staying in place (I'm confident in most trim applications, but the thought of cutting a new skirtboard (with or without a template/jig) would give me nightsweats for weeks.I may go the suggested route of buring the risers and treads in chiseled channels in the inboard skirtboard (in NH wood moves lots!)I'd not considered handnailing (I had been planning on X nailing with 15ga) but if handnailing holds better in conjunction with adhesive, that's the route I'll go. What penny ring shank would you recommend and what head style (I don't know that I've seen larger finish nails with ring shanks.)Thank you again.
Chad
Just another idea:
I’m contemplating a similar project, but my stairs will be in a new house. Instead of a skirt board, I’m thinking of trying some trim. Attached is a copy of a photo from a book of what I’d like to try. My treads are exactly 1” thick with an exact 1” radius nosing. I’ll use a 1” forstner bit on my drill press, drill the trim piece, then cut out for each nosing, then trim “like normal”. This is definitely more labor than butt joints, but I think it beats routing a skirt board (especially without a Stair Wizard jig). It will also hide the inevitable shrinking treads. Plus, I can do a lot of it ahead.
Either way, good luck with your project.
Funny you should post that - an architect friend of mine suggested the very same approach - I like the look a lot. I'll bring it in front of the jury and see what she says. Thanks.
Some additional notes on the trim option. Maybe you, or your architect friend, have some thoughts.One thing I haven’t figured out for sure is my nailing. Obviously there’s not a stud on each step, so:
- I’ll rely on just the general support from all the other studs to keep it tight to the wall (plus some nailing into the drywall) -or-
- I’ll use a back nailing strip incorporated somehow behind the trim.To bond the trim pieces to each other I was thinking of a 45 and then pocket screws on the outside (stairnose) trim corner, then cut 90's on the inside (tread/riser) corner to size on site.