I am planning to replace double hung windows and front entry door( has side lights also), into openings with cedar siding currently surrounding the openings. The siding was replaced only a few years ago, and I would like not to damage or remove it in the retrofit process. The replacements will be vinyl coated Andersons. In new construction, these units have a flashing sleeve on four sides that would go under the siding( the siding being installed after the windows). How would the retrofit units be installed so as to flash under the siding without damaging the siding. Is there a special detail required for the windows that would accomplish the necessary flashing without damaging the siding? Is there another similar quality window with the proper edge detail?
Thanks much.
Phil
Replies
Can't be done any easier than putting on your socks after your shoes or changing your underwear in public without being noticed.
It sounds like you have no trim on your house though so it may be possible to install the windows and cut back the siding enough to run 5/4x4" trim around the frame. My inner builder is screaming DON'T DO IT!!! though. That option will make it almost impossible to get flashing and felt tucked in properly. You'll be relying heavily on gobs of caulking and will have some leaks eventually, plus the labor cost will be sky high for working backwards, trying to dingle when you are supposed to be dangleing.
Just do it right. Work the siding back and fill it in again.
Oh yeah! And lose the super large red font, please. It hurts my eyes.
Excellence is its own reward!
Edited 6/15/2002 8:18:21 AM ET by piffin
How's this. The existing windows have a std. moulding which allows an overlap over the plywood sheeting of about 3/4 inch all sides. I'm interested in the detail needed for the new overlap within the same space previously taken up, so as to make a waterproof installation.
Better.
It sounds like you are saying that the existing wood windows have a brickmold trim. If it is the same width or a little larger than the mounting flange on the Andersons, you can get them installed, then add a wood trim. You might just need to size the trim on a table saw.
Again though, proper water shielding requires that ALL laps in an assembly face downhill to shed water. Deviation from that standard can invite water to start rot in the wall someplace. eg. the tarpaper behiond the siding should lap down over the top flange of the window. A metal flashing should be behind the siding to lap out over the wood trim. If this is not possible in your scenario, you have to trust to gobs of caulk, a perennial lee wind and weekly sacrifices to the rain gods.
Or a high window under a large overhanging soffit detail.
Excellence is its own reward!
Thanks. I appreciate the advice. I also agree with the excellence aspect.