Replacing exterior studs behind stucco
xxPaulCPxx
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
I have a garage with some water/dry rot damaged studs that need to be replaced. The studs are on an exterior wall that is faced by paper and stucco. To replace them I was thinking that I could use a sawzall between the paper and the wood to take out the fastners. This would obviously ding up the paper, and I would have no way of reattaching the stucco to the stud again. How would you replace an exterior stud with a stucco exterior finish?
Thanks for any advice.
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Replies
Premium adhesive on the new stud and maybe toe screwing through the edge of the new stud into the sheathing with the appropriate fastener? Or add a lath catcher to the side of the new stud and screw that to the sheathing with the appropriate fastener?
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I see what you are saying. However, since the Stucco is a permiable covering, don't I need to still provide a vapor barrier there too?Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
The stucco here in NW Ohio has the tar paper over the sheathing and behind the stucco. Your warm climate in CA. may make the application different. I'm sorry, I don't know. Once you remove the rotted stud, slip more t.p. where it's missing, forget the glue on the stud.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Is there no sheathing over those studs? Just wire and stucco? That would certainly make it difficult. You got me stumped.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Sorry, there is tar paper between the studs and the stucco. So it looks like after I seperate the stud from the stucco - doing my best not to damage the stucco - I will replace any torn tar paper and then replace with new studs. I guess the only way to attach the stucco again would be to sink a new screw from the outside through the stucco to the stud, then seal up the fastener. I would pre-drill the hole and use SS fastners, I guess 12 spacing would be similar to how the mesh was orriginally attached to the studs?Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Son of a bitch paul, not the easiest retrofit. Now I understand why you asked. If someone has done this with what you've got, that tip would be priceless. Best of luck.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
paul,
I did just that on a termite/ dryrot job in brisbane ca, we used stainless fastners and stainless fender washers set into the stucco ( used a spade bit to cut out a recess, and went thru quite a few) then we covered the washers/ screws with stucco patch and bobs your uncle....
your mileage may vary
james
"and bobs your uncle" - Actually, Bob was my grandfather. Great idea about using SS and fender washers.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Why remove the old stud, unless it's so far gone that it demos completely with the suction of a shop vac? If it still holds the nails that fasten the stucco to it, sister the better side of the existing stud. First tent and fumigate to kill the termites and dry rot fungus, and fix whatever the water source was. Use the stainless screws and washers like James suggests into the sister in places where you don't trust the remains of the old stud to hold onto the stucco. That way you minimize the damage you have to do to your existing tar paper.
-- J.S.
Edited 2/8/2005 2:17 pm ET by JOHN_SPRUNG
I see what you are saying, and I'll look at doing that instead. The only confounding variable is that the rot is at the intersection of the header (top two 2x4 boards that rim the ceiling and support the rafters) and studs.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
I want to be sure I am reading this right... you say that you have the rot at the TOP of the stud?
I am assuming (dangerous thing to do) that you have eves on the house. And if you have eves.. how did water get to the TOP of the stud? Do you have a direct wind off the ocean?
You may have a condensation issue, rather than an issue with water permeating the stucco. If your eaves are enclosed... is there adequate ventilation of these eves? If not... water will condensate and drip down though the path of least resistance. This may be a place to direct your attention, if you have not already done so.
As far as the fix for the stud.. I agree to sister the stud on the good side. saves a lot of hassle. Just cut the stud to the full height of the former stud.. then sister away!
Yep - rotted at the top. The reason is that there is a poorly built valley above them that doesn't drain well, and there has been alot of leaking inside for years, apparently. I have to rebuild it as well as replace some rafters as part of redoing the roof over this area.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!