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Hello, Thinking about taking down a unfinished garage gable end wall. Just the studs & plates, build new wall & install. The existing studs are bowed in & out making it out of plane & hard to drywall. I’ll be residing the exterior wall anyway so no extra work there except sheeting. Any advise would be very helpful. Thanks |
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Welcome to Breaktime.
I see you've posted this message twice. It'll get some response I'm sure, don't confuse the issue with multiples of the same message.
I would give thought to "straightening'' what you've got. Cut almost clear through across the offending parties, nail off a straight one to it's side.
I work alone and try to utilize the simple approach. Actual conditions may make my advice bogus.
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Thanks for the advice & sorry about the double posting. I deleted the first I thought!!! It dose sound a lot easier than taking the entire wall down. I guess that's why we have BREAKTIME RIGHT!!!!!! Looks like everyone agrees with you in some form.There's a window in this wall,the framing round it is bad I guess I can reframe it in place also. Just thought it would be better to build a new wall. Thanks again. I also am a loner.
Cut some wedges 2" long, 3" for 2x6 studs. Taper them from 1x to 2x over the length, where x = saw kerf width.
Set your saw cut depth to 1 3/4" for 2x4 studs or cut 2 3/4" deep with a recip for a 2x6 stud.
Working from the inside of the wall, cut half way thru a bent stud in the center of the curve. If the curve is convex, push it straight and nail a 4' scab to hold it there. If the kerf closes before the stud is straight, cut it again a foot away from the first cut and use a 5' scab.
If the curve is concave, drive a wedge(s) in the kerf(s) and scab as above.
Chisel, cut, hack, or chew the ends of the wedges off.
SamT
Sounds pretty easy, but do the stud have to be free from the exterior sheathing before cutting & driving in the wedge ? some of the studs seem to be bowed out to the exterior,even the window kings & trimmers about 1/2"or more the header isn't even flush sticks out about 1/4" maybe plane it down or rebuild in place. The wall is 22' long & the plates upper & lower bow outward 3/8" about center. I guess I can live with that. just need to straighten up the studs & take care of the window framing.
THANKS
Run strapping perpindicular to the studs, 1x work well.
Shim the 1x's to get a flat plane.
Matt
Another thought is to sister finger jointed studs or steel studs to the existing, leaving the top and bottom of the studs proud of the plate enough to take out the worst crown.
Matt
I was things about strapping at first also,great idea for the interior but no help for the exterior. It would also help fill the space left on the sill 6" sill plate ( 5 1/2" - 3 1/2"- 1/2" sheathing = 1 1/2". so it might be good to do anyway after getting the wall squared away. thanks
While you're at it, do check to see if the wall has racked (turned from rectangle to parallelogram). This is something you could correct now (with appropriate application of a come-along, eg, after removing the sheathing) but will be difficult later.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
Wouldn't that be like trying to square up the gable end wall & plumbing the to adjacent walls also? Seems like a difficult task,with brick from the belt down on one of the adjacent walls.
I don't recall anything about brick. But then I'm ADHD and tend to miss a lot.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
Taking the whole wall out means you lose your shear bracing and wind ccould bring the building down while you work on it unless you do a bunch of other braccing too.
I would slice one stud at aa time and sister patch to strighten it. Less lumber and less time and better result.
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THANKS they all agree with you, so I will also. Didn't think I needed to do all that bracing while leaving the truss in place, thought that would support the adjacent walls. Shows you what I know.
If the wall is bowed outward I'd slice and sister the studs as described. If bowed inward you could replace the joists a few at a time. Depending on the the type of sheathing you could either leave it there while you do this or remove it a panel or two at a time. (IF you remove all the sheathing at once you should first brace the wall diagonally.)
If you take out the entire wall, you need to so some bracing, diagonally to prevent the end from racking, horizontally across the bottom of the gable (if you take out the gable too), to keep the walls from spreading apart, and possibly (depending on roof construction) vertically to support the ridge pole.