1970’s track home not well maintained. It is being repaired for resale and cost are an issue.
The countertop is laminate square edge. Backsplash is tile with a metal code strip between the tile and counter top.
What is the probability of getting that cove off without damageing the tile? I don’t know if it goes under the tile are not. Or behind the countertop.
If I can get it cove off I was thinking of pealing off the exitings. The edging is gone and part of the top is loose and torn. But the substrate appears good.
But what about replacing the cove? Is that still avalable? I suspect that the gap will be too big to get a nice looking caulk joint.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Replies
If there are brads visible in the cove, yer in good shape. That is all there is to it.
If no brads showing, I 'THINK' the tile sits in a channel on the top.
I'd yank the top forward out from under the cove as a test run, after slipping a really thin putty knife blade between the 'mica and the cove.
I am visualizing alum. Mill finish cove..is that it?
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
"Mill finish cove..is that it?"Yes.I don't think that there are any brads But did not look at close.But I have the similar in my kitchen and no brads. At least this is L shaped. Mine is J shapped and trapped on 4 sides. So when I redo mine I was planning strip the tile also.Waiting for other suggestions. But probably will suggest tearing out the tile and CT and skim coating the walls and puttin in a preformed.Personally I HATE the looks of those. But it is common in this class of house..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Yeah, I'd think the cove was set in sillycone anyway, not much worth effort if the tile is at all shabby. Just plan on a Post form top.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
Without seeing it from here, Chances are that metal cove just sits on the edge of the existing counter top, and if it is metal, you likely ain't gonna pull it out without damaging or lifting the existing laminate surface.so, scribe a line about 1" off the wall and score it with a carbide laminate scoring material.When you try to pull it out, either it will break the laminate at the score line, or it won't.Regardless you gotta get it out, and deal with the aftermath.Which ain't so bad, cause if it breaks unevenly, you is still gonna have to either strip off the old aminate entirely (which I'd recommnd if yer not so great at replacing leaky taps, or just relam over the existing. Whichever way you go, yer gonna get friendly with Bondo (automotive body finishing material), which smells only three times more than it is easy to work with (planes, files, sands etc...)Once you commit, yer SWMBO ain't gonna let you back up and try again, so yu gotta get yer ducks in a row here fella. Caveat #1...if yer gonna over coat, ie relaminate over the existing surface, the existing surface has to be sound and firmly attachedCaveat#2, if yer thinking of relamination over the top of the old laminate, it HAS to be clean, and scuffed up real goodotherwise the glue ain't gonna bond. Caveat #3- this I learned the hardway...even if the taps don't leak, you gotta seal up all the tap holes and sink holes with silicone. Why? because once a mere tad of moisture starts to seep between the two layers of laminate, yer top layer WILL swell and break the glue bond, and next thing you know you got a wavy countertop. Relamination over existing plam is an approved methodology in any app notes from any supplier I've read, but NEVER have I seen any warning about moisture seepage around sinks/taps. A note to the wise. Moreover, if yer countertops are on k3 or some other iteration of particle board, sealing the cut edges of the sink/tap cut outs would, to my best guess give about anuther 5 years of life to them.Meanwhile back to the question in point....If you have a tile backsplash, and yer original installer was somewhat intelligent, he would have left a grout line, under the bottom row of tiles. This can be scraped out, and yer new laminate slipped underneath. If this ain't the case, yer hooped with having to scribe yer laminate to the tile configuration. Done it a few times, Hate it with a passion. The joint gets sealed with real silicone, but its still a PITAIf yer replacing a backsplash type ctop, yer gonna be working in a different mode from what I just described..Almost certainly replacing any tiles etc..Gosh darn it, why not just send me a photo of what you got (don't worry, I have seen damn near everything under the sun) and I can jump from conjecture to specifics as best I canEric in Cowtown.