I’m getting ready to replace my front porch posts. I’ve removed the old supports (4″ x 4″) and have installed galvanized brackets on the ironwood deck (recently installed and floated over a concrete porch floor). The new porch is nailed to a 2″ x 4″ frame (wide side down, i.e., 1 1/2″ high) which is securely attacked to the concrete.
My question is do I need to rent hydraulic jacks to get the new posts in place or can I simply use a framing hammer to pound the top of the posts into place?
Also, aside from priming the bottom of these Doug Fir 4″ x 4″ posts, do you recommend I place anything else on the bottom that will rest on the bracket, i.e., a square of roofing felt, water and ice square, etc.?
As I’m not planning on putting trim around the top, and don’t want to use brackets, will long deck screws be sufficient for securing the top of the post to the beam?
Any advice wiould be greatly appreciated.
Replies
You don't need hydraulic jacks. A simple doubled 2x4, wedged at a slight angle, will generally raise a porch roof the quarter inch or so you'd need to avoid pounding on the new column. Or you can use a cheap screw-adjustable segmented lally column -- usually available for $8-15.
Thanks, Dan, I'll see if I can raise the roof by getting another 1/4" off the 2 x 4's. I'll have to look for your screw-adjustable segmented lally column. I've never heard of that one before.
Whether you need hydraulics to levitate the beam above you depends on how much it has sagged while you went without support. You might be able to correct up to a quarter inch with springpoles, but more than that and you want some asssist
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Good point on the sagging. Not sure how I would check for sagging, however? The beam is relatively level. I guess I should have taken measurements on the old posts before removing them. The guy helping with this project (who has carpentry experience) didn't mention sagging.
Well, get out your level and check anything that should be level in the roof.
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Now why the hell didn't I think of that. Duh? Guess that's why I post here: from the obvious to the not-so-obvious.
I wouldn't rust a four foot level to tell me much in a case like this, and iff the whole house is off ( not uncommon) then point to point lines are better
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Maybe he just doesn't have "much" carpentry experience.To check, run a string line on the beam above. Space it down with a scrap of 2x4 at 1-1/2" at each end, then measure in the middle. If the string is tight, and the difference is more than 1/4", you see it right there.Another method would be with a builder's level. It is even possible that your beam is a false one and there are cantilevered trusses above and no reason to worry. I would have pulled posts in that situation too.
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Yes, your right about my carpentry experience. Just call me grasshopper, sensei.I'll try your string method. Thanks, Piffin.
It's hard to comment on your new setup without seeing it, but generally speaking, I always use some sort of stand-off or base when setting a post. It helps prevent rotting, as well as ties the post to the porch, helping to prevent up lift. Also, fastening the bottom of the post may prevent post kick-out from some lateral force. (If a car hits it, though, all bets are off. Been there, had to replace the post. )
If the post is going to be wrapped, I'll shoot stainless screws up through the side of the post to the beam. With no wrap, I try to fasten from above. If not possible, well, you do whatever you have to do to fasten the post adequately to the beam, and make it pretty somehow afterwards.
Good luck.
"I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." Invictus, by Henley.
Thanks, Nick, for your post.I've got the posts set in a galvanized base, so that covers the bottom. Not planning on wrapping the post, but will shoot some stainless steel screws up into the beam as you suggest. Maybe I can wrap bottom and top with some sort of trim.Thanks again.