Customer has an old large deck with long boards. To replace rotted sections he’s taken a circular saw and plunge cut back to the good part above a joist and just replaced that section. I agree with him that not replacing the complete board is cost effectve, but I’m believing there has to be a better way than to just cut into the top of the joist in order to remove the deck board. This ends up leaving a furrow in the joist that will harbor water and dirt right where the seam of the cut board and the new board will meet.
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Replies
Well,
You could suggest he get right next to the joist, cut through, add a block to the side of the joist (caulk that joint so water doesn't get in there), install new deck board.
Or
Use a Multimaster.
I'd probably use my MultiMaster, if it were only a few cuts. No matter how you use the circ saw it'll take chunks out of the adjacent boards.
You could cover the joist under the butted ends with I&WS.
himiler
Ice and Water sheild-the roofing underlay to help combat ice dam leakage.
Smaller forms of peel and stick "flashing" will work for what pauls talking about. However, you'd need to release the screws or nails on the remaining part of the decking still sitting on the joist, to slip the flashing under there. Then when you fasten back through it, the membrane seals around the screw or nail, preventing water from pooling in that saw kerf. A good elastomeric caulk would work as well in the kerf.
I'll be out on this jobsite on Thursday with good solutions. You guys just put a few more coins in the pocket when it's down to the bottom.
Thanks!
Good luck
And don't forget.
The next time we all meet,
you're buying.
This could be done with a long straight bit in a plunge router.