I’m about to be doing some insulation work in my attic (replacing some FG) and I see some asbestos tile removal and paint stripping down the road as possibilities. So I figure its time to invest in a respirator rather than keep buying those dust masks.
I got an AO safety pro half face respirator at HD and it doesn’t fit real well – my face is a bit too big and they only come in one size.
Anyone have an preferences on respirators and where to get them? Should I get a full or half face one and what are the pros -cons?
I’d like to keep it under $100.
Thanks!
Replies
If you want it under $100, you're talking half-face.
The long-term health risk of asbestos is from breathing it in, so you only need a half-face for that. A well-fitting half-face should be able to be held on your face by breathing in a little bit (not using the straps for the test). Shaving makes a big difference in performance as does trying different brands that have different shapes and sizes. All hardware stores will offer one or two brands. By looking around, you can sample 5 or 6 brands (North, MSA, AOSafety, 3M, Surviv-air, Bullard, Allergo, Moldex, Willson, Pro-teck, etc). Mine is North, fits pretty well, I have a pretty big head.
For asbestos, you need a HEPA filter. It will be purple colored.
Full-face offer eye protection, which is nice for all the fiberglass fibers floating around in the attic. Full-face also offer a greater "protection factor" if you get close to regulatory exposure limits. It is hotter to wear and very hard to make work with eyeglasses. For fibers and dust, I figure that corneas regenerate themselves quite quickly. For acids and especially for bases, I want the splash protection of a full-face.
Thanks David. I'm going to Grainger after work today to pick up a 3M one in a large, maybe that'll be better. Trouble is you have to buy it to try it on. Good long list of brands.I haven't seen any that have a HEPA filter. The best I've seen is P100. Is that the same thing?
The proper filter will say "HEPA" and be purple.
An HD or Lowe's may not stock them. Look under "Safety Supplies" in the phone book. They'll have a wide variety of filter types (organics, acids, HEPA, etc) for the respirators they carry. That is perhaps the first selection criteria. That you can get the filters you need.
When you are not using the respirator, store the filters in a sealed ziplock. This is helpful for all but crictal for organic cartiridges. Otherwise, months later, its capacitiy will be used up having adsorbed various stuff from ambient air.David Thomas Overlooking Cook Inlet in Kenai, Alaska
I believe NIOSH has replaced the old designations such as HEPA with a new system: particulate filters are rated as being 95%, 99%, or 100% (actually 99.97%) efficient, tested against 0.4 micron particles. they are also rated as being P (permissible for use against oil mists), R (permitted for restricted use against oil), or N (not for use against oil). This gives a total of nine types. Since asbestos fibres are very small, and mitigation often involves damping the material with oil mists (WD40 etc.), you need P100 cartridges. They are purple.
Amateurs talk strategy, Generals talk logistics.
Are you sure about using an oil-type mist for asbestos abatement? The standard is to mist the materials using a surfactant (amended) water solution. The surfactant reduces the surface tension of the water. I would think an oil-based mist would be counter-productive and leave you with quite a mess.
If you handle a whole lot of asbestos in controlled environments a full face mask would be OK. You get into a hot attic with a full face mask and you will likely regret the choice. The narrowed field of view, confined feeling, heat and sweat can freak out even well trained people.
If your willing to spend $1000 or $1200 go for a positive pressure hood. This is the preferred breathing protection device for asbestos abatement workers. HEPA filtered air is driven by a battery powered fan unit into a hood with a wide viewing window. The hood is maintained at a slightly higher pressure than the outside air so pollutants stay out. The air slow is constant and cooling. The hoods feel a whole lot less confining than a mask.
My choice is a simple high quality P100, sometimes N100 is OK if there is no oil misting, filter mask with an exhalation valve, four bands and a good seal around the nose. The N95 is almost as good protection and probably fine for FG. The valve is worth the extra cost as makes it a lot more comfortable in heat and humidity. The light weight and limited surface coverage of the face makes it feel less confining and the field of view is good. These go for around $7 a shot and are reusable with FG but get rid of it in a sealed plastic bag after asbestos exposure.
I was in the same boat as you are now. I went to a place that specialized in Asbestos abatement products, and I got to take a look at a bunch of masks. I compared a few full face maskes and settled on the one by North, with silicon rubber and polycarb full face mask. I got it a year ago, and I use it whenever I need real eye protection, like grinding, sanding, working on something above me, working in the attic. It is so comfortable, I don't mind wearing it. Only problem is working in bright sunlight, as I like to wear shades all the time outside. That is the only downside as far as I can tell. I keep the lense in good shape so I can make it last. I spent more than $100 on it, but it WAS WORTH EVERY PENNY. I wear it now rather than paper masks if I'm working inside.
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!