I’m a regular at Knots but you people have helped before. Hope you can this time.
I have 5 aluminum framed, sliding screens – 4′ x 8′. They are too big to fit in my SUV so I guess I’ll do them myself. In my “youth” I used to ‘bow’ the frame lengthwise, fasten the ends of the screen cloth, release the bow, then fasten the sides. These were smaller, wooden frames in the ’50s.
I don’t know if this applies to these sliders (I’m afraid of crimping the frame) and I don’t know if it is necessary now that we have rubber splines.
Any suggestions?
Frosty
“I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm.” FDR – 1922
Replies
I've replaced screens in sliders and I didn't find any need to bow the frame. The rubber spline seems to take up just the right amount of slack to keep the screen taut without over-tensioning the frame.
A helper would be handy just to keep the screen in approximate position while you insert the spline although I managed without one.
Thanks. That's the sort of advice I needed. Now - to call my wifeFrosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922
I worked at a hardware store for several years when I was in college and took care of all the screens and windows that came in. The trick I found that worked the best was to cut the length of the screen several inches longer than the frame. Use spring clamps to hold the screen in place - one on a long side, one on a short side. Install the spline on the other two sides. After the spline is installed on the two sides, remove the clamps and finish. Having the two sides done puts just the right amount of tension on the screen. If you are using aluminum screen instead of fiberglass, I would clamp them the same way. But before you insert the spline, use the roller to crease the screen into the channel. This minimizes your chances of the screen ripping. I also used a plastic roller as opposed to a metal roller because the plastic roller does not tear the screening as easily. A metal roller will often tear fiberglass screen. But not usually until the last side when you get to start all over. Hope this helps.
I use metal screening for these, but then the units I rescreen are mostly in rental units (read into that what you want)
I have made an adjustable frame that I can put inside any slider screen to keep it square and sides parallel.
What I find is that if you don't have some kind of apparatus such as this, when you roll the spline into the sides, the aforementioned tensdency to bow in comes into play, and suddenly you find yerself pulling out spline and re-rolling.
Personally speaking, I'd rather do it just once.
Eric
If you have a length of wooden dowel, any diameter, you can roll the excess screen around it, then hold or clamp it while you install the spline. Helps to equalize the tension and remove sags/wrinkles. Basically the same effect as bowing the frame.
Thanks to all. The ideas are great - VERY helpful. By the way - you are all invited to visit Knots if you feel we can be of help.Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922