why doesn’t anyone make a seven inch circular saw that cuts the same way a table saw does, with the good side up?
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Mas!
Kickback. If your good side is up, then that means that your saw blade is pushing the material away from the table. This could be a recipe for disaster.
I always cut from the bad side if using material that is likely to chip or spinter. If your scribing you can leave the line and use a plane to sneak up to your scribe line.
Jon Blakemore
they all work that way.... just put your work piece accross a couple of sawhorses, lay down on the ground and cut from the bottom....
tada... good side up.... there are a number of technical difficulties with this method, sawdust in the eyes... who is going to hold the boards from falling down and smacking you in the head?.....
on second thought..... don't do this...
i hated all that dust in my eyes ..
so I just duct taped a 5 ft section of black iron pipe to the underside of my table saw ...
made for a big handle on an even bigger "circular" saw ...
got too heavy though ...
plus .. couldn;t find a saw case for it to save my life.
JeffBuck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
Jeff,
If it's too heavy then I suggest moving down to a contractors saw.
Jon Blakemore
I tried that first ...
but the legs kept poking me in the eyes ...
that was almost as bad as the dust!
JeffBuck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
Jeff- you must have one heck of a right arm to handle either of those machines.
I'm thinking Popeye- sized.
Do you eat spinach, too?
I yams what I yam!
toot toot.
JeffBuck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
You mean one where the bale turns the opposite direction, so the piece being cut splinters on the bottom?
That would mean the saw was constantly trying to climb out of the cut. Could be some nasty kickback.
If you wanna try it, just start your cut on the far side of the piece with the back edge of the saw and pull it towards you. Then when the blade grabs a hunk of wood it will jump right out of the kerf headed towards you.
He who laughs last, thinks slowest.
When using a table saw, the wood moves toward the blade. The teeth tend to pull the wood down to the table. If the blade were to turn the other way, and you were not pushing down hard enough, it would yank the wood up and away from you, possibly pulling your hands into the blade.
When using a circular saw, the blade moves away from you on top of the wood, and thus tends to pull the saw tight to the wood. If this blade were to turn the other way, and you were not pushing down on the saw hard enough, it would tend to walk up and away from you, ready to cut the first thing it comes in contact with. It would also tend to kick the wood back at you.
In both cases, the blade is turning in a way that pulls the wood and the blade together.
I will try to help even though I think your pulling my leg. If you are cutting sheet goods, veneered panels, etc. try this method. You want to score the work first. After setting out a straightedge, install a sharp combination blade in the saw,40 teeth or more.Set blade depth at about 1/4". Start at far end of work and pull saw backwards while riding along the fence.Then set saw for full cut and push like usual.If pulling the saw seems uncomfortable , then remove blade and install it backwards. This is only for the scoring cuts.You will have to reinstall the blade normally to finish the cut.
Works on anything that easily chips, I use this method on laminated panels too. Trimmed a lot of door bottoms like this.
mike
that is a good tip, I will file that away, similar to coming in a little in the wrong direction with the router on the end grain. Thanks
A little blue tape works okay as well
>>If pulling the saw seems uncomfortable , then remove blade and install it backwards.
Do not try this at home! Or anywhere, anytime, for that matter.
The blade will still be turning the same way but the teeth will be backwards. The teeth backsideswill be engaging the work first from the back (handle end) of the saw, pushing down, then trying to move thru the work and coming up thru the work at the front of the saw.
VERY DANGEROUS!
It will be like trying to hammer out the wood of the kerf with little teeny tiny hammers. It will also knock the carbide bits off your blade and send them flying around the area, so be sure and wear safety glasses made from 1/4" plate steel!
SamT
Sam, did you read the original post? This fellow has trouble with chipout using a hand held circular saw. What I posted was a way to score the work without tape or scoring with a knife. The blade projects 1/4" or less ,the saw must be pulled to score without chipping. If a person is uncomfortable pulling a saw backwards , then I suggest he install the blade backwards. I said to push the saw like normal, then install the blade correctly and take a full cut.Most carpenters will not turn the blade backwards, they will pull the saw backwards for the scoring cut. Then set the blade for a full cut and finish the cut.
I have received many an email over the years thanking me for this tip.If it wasn't safe , I wouldn't post it.
mike
Yes Mike, I carefully read the post. Pulling the saw backwards against a fence will help prevent chips. It is not as safe as pushing the saw, so you have to be sure that you are maintain a firm grip and apply plenty of downward pressure and use a "Weaver Gun Control" type hold on the saw to prevent climbing.
Turning the blade backwards is not safe! I know from experience that the carbide tips can fly off with a lot of force. Enough speed to completely embed a chip in doug fir.
You've been lucky. So far.
SamT
Everybody has their own opinion on safely operating power tools.If you believe that saw teeth will fly off a blade makeing a shallow scoring cut, then do not use this method.I guess I've been lucky for the last 43 years, that's about how long I've used this method.Also, it doesn't cut down on chipout , it eliminates it completely except in the cheapest veneered plywood. Then add a zero clearance subbase to the saw and proceed.No extra downward pressure is needed when pulling the saw, just normal pressure. From your post I gather you have been scared from a tooth breaking away from the blade. Me too, hit a nail or maybe a hard knot, happened twice that I recall.
This was taking a full cut in framing lumber, quite different from a 1/4" or less scoring cut in a finished product.Sam, what is a "weaver gun control type hold"? Never heard that one.
mike
A "weaver Stance"is a method of holding a gun with "isometric" pressure. Each of your arms present an opposing force on the object held. This gives much more control when something unexpected happens.
SamT
i dont really see the need for it, but hey.... maybe you will.
$179.99
This tool has the cutting ability to perform like both a circular saw & metal-cutting chop saw.
Two carbide-tipped blades run flush against one another and rotate in opposite directions substantially reducing kickback. Together they create an incredibly smooth & clean cut.
Auxilary handle provides added leverage and support. Designed and constructed for heavy-duty use.
Ideal for auto body reconstruction and repair, electrical installation, demolition projects, construction and installation jobs, carpentry and remodeling, plumbing, installation of HVAC systems and renovation.
Edited 4/7/2004 7:51 pm ET by oak
Hey Oak,
I assume you switched the button at the bottom of the post to source to get those pics in there. What do you type in to get it to work?
Thanks,
Clampman
hey jim...
in the past i have used the source and typed in the <img src> html tags...
this time i tried a much simplier approach... i highlighted the text/pictures on the webpage i wanted to copy... copied it to the clipboard (ctrl+c), then pasted (ctrl+v) it into this forum text window
i didn't think it would work, so i was suprised when it did... such as this..
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Edited 4/8/2004 12:37 am ET by oak
Thanks oak. I finally got the <IMG source=...... business figure out before your last post, and just tried the easy way you described. First time I pasted it with the "source" button pushed and it came up fine - then when I hit "preview" the pic disappeared and the text got small. Then I tried it in the regular box, and the pic stayed.
It sure is much easier to just copy and paste.
Thanks again.
Regards,
Clampman
I bought the twin cutter and it is handy for removing material smoothly but I am still holding out on final assessment.
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Remodeler/Punchout