Replies

1. 
   DanH | Dec 29, 2004 08:19pm | #1

   I would guess that this is a series-wired unit, with the field and armature in series. So one field lead is connected to one brush, and the other brush and field lead are connected to the power. The power switch would be in one of those legs (or possibly both, if a double-pole switch), but it doesn't generally matter which lead from the motor is switched. (However, if, during rewiring, you scramble which end of the field is connected to which brush, the unit will run backwards.)

   A parallel wired unit has the field and armature in parallel, with one power leg going to one field and one brush terminal, and the other power leg going to the other field and brush terminals.

   What does matter (a little) is that the brass/black/narrow prong wire of the power cord should go to the power switch, while the the silver/white/wide prong wire of the cord should bypass the switch (if a single-pole switch) and go to the field or brush.

1. 
   OverKnight | Dec 29, 2004 11:13pm | #2

   Thanks, Dan. This is an old router; at the newest, it's from the sixties, maybe even the fifties. There are two wires going into the switch, and two coming out of it. There appears to be one wire coming from the brush assembly and one wire coming from the field. As was the norm for this era, all wires are black. I don't know if this clarifies anything...

1. 
   DanH | Dec 30, 2004 12:35am | #3

   OK, it's either a double-pole switch, or the switch just has a "thru" connection for convenience. In any event, just connect the two wires from the switch to the two open motor terminals -- one brush and one field. The other brush & field should already be connected together, and you don't need to touch that connection.If this unit is old enough to have a 2-wire cord, it would be good to upgrade it to 3-wire. This simply means using a 3-prong replacement cord and connecting the green wire in the cord to some part of the metal frame of the router, with the black and white of the replacement cord connecting to the switch.

1. 
   OverKnight | Dec 30, 2004 05:27am | #5

   Thanks, Dan. Again, though, should the hot lead go to the brushes or to the field?
   Although it was a two-wire cord I've removed, I have a three-wire cord to replace it with. There is a lug inside the case to attach a ground wire to.
   Thanks again.

1. 
   DanH | Dec 30, 2004 06:16am | #7

   It doesn't make any real difference whether the "hot" (brass/black/narrow lug) goes to brush or field. There's probably a theoretical difference based on whether field or armature is more likely to develop a short to case, but not a big difference worth worrying about, especially if you install a 3-wire cord.

2. 
   OverKnight | Dec 30, 2004 04:15pm | #8

   Thanks, Dan. I didn't want to damage anything. These were my father's routers, and although they're not very powerful, I like using them. Thanks again.

2. 
   BillHartmann | Dec 30, 2004 05:01am | #4

   Switches are often generic.

   My Ace hardware store has a box with several different tool siwtches.

   Or try a tool repair shop.

1. 
   OverKnight | Dec 30, 2004 05:28am | #6

   It is a pretty generic-looking toggle switch. There's an Ace nearby; I'll give it a shot. Thanks.