*
I’m building a lake cottage and am ready to finish the roof work with a ridge vent. (Inspector says no to unvented roof). What’s the better product in general, the aluminun “Filtervent” or the plastic “Shinglevent II” – both from AirVent Inc. I realize that the Shinglevent is designed to be covered with shingles, which would be nice to look at, but I don’t want to sacrifice performance for looks on this.
thanks in advance,
Dave
Does drilling new screws into the roof rafters compromise the strength of the roof?
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
*
Dave,
You might find this thread from the archives interesting:
< Obsolete Link > Gene Leger "Because I HAVE to vent....." 12/15/98 2:09pm
Rich Beckman
*Been using ridge vents , peak vents, mushroom vents, gable end vents and U name it vents. The Shingle Vent II is by far the creme d'la creme. Great looking , about $2/ lf, doesn't blow off, baffeled, moves more air than the competion, and it DOESN'T leak. The aluminum ones are passe', always some clown or homeowner using them for a step, or the caulking lets go on the joint seams and they leak.The roll vents are for guys who are just going thru the motions of venting a roof, it sort of complys with the code, but they don't measure up in independent testing.If you do install the Shingle over, run it from peak to peak , for appearance sake, even though you don't cut the slot until you get to the first bay. Try it , you'll like it !Mikey likes it.
*I vote for Shingle Vent II also. Just a little story to go along with it - I had a roofer do a rather steep roof with 60 sq of shingles and Shingle Vent II ridge vent. An "accessory" for the product is the end stoppers. I ask the roofer about the end stoppers...Roofer says "we never use those - No water is going to get into there unless there is a huricane or something." I says, "humm... let me see, we havn't had a huricane around here for at least 14 months."That was the end of the discussion.Next day there was an empty end stopper box laying over by the trash pile!
*Mastt G. Having found the end stopper in the trash,are you certain the roofer installed the Shingle Vent vent? GeneL
*I have to admit I always read Fred L's posts with much interest.Being that I live in the Northeast, I've seen every approach to venting there is.That's why I have to agree with Fred.Nothing on the market works, or does what it says, or solves the problem. Sealing off the cold areas from the warm areas is the only way. If there is no warm air to mix with the cold air there can be no condensation. It's Physics 101.What I can't figure out is why are people so unwilling to look at other options when time has shown what we have now does not work.More holes in a roof invite condensation, not eliminate it. I also can't figure out why someone would have a new roof installed then nail wires and heating elementts all over the eave edges were water is most likely to get in? Let's get out of the 70's, and have some real world solutions.Check out Fred's website and read it without bias.It makes sense.
*Well, reinhard, I guess your approach is the other solution, and it works if you develop a system and stick to it.But most of our work , and most of the situations in the remodeling world are not going to be solved by the seal it off approach.I too have seen and tried almost every kind of vent system there is, and I KNOW that Shingle Vent II and soffit vents WORK. So , me, I'll stick with what works for most people and situations.New construction, additions, and gut remodels, we use soffit vents, baffled rafters, and ridge vent. We don't get mold on our ceilings, we don't have ice dams, and our roofs don't rot from the bottom out.b Keep your powder dry, the millenium is comming, but not for thirteen months !
*Hi Freddy,I see the passage of time hasn't made you smarter.The man asked for a specific answer on some products, not your usual drivel. To suggest that he violate local requirements by his inspector is stupid and childish on your part. But I wouldn't expect anything else from you.Gabe
*Fred,nice professional touch-tell the man to violate code, and nullify the shingle warranty.Also,he should probably screw shut his egress windows after the inspector leaves so they don't let in excessive moisture or rain.Dave- cap-over ridge vents work great, and when installed properly don't leak. I've installed them on hundreds of roofs since 1989 without a single leak.John
*Dave, JRS and Fred have duked it out over this one in the archives -- plenty there to keep you reading for a while. When (or if) I finish my new roof, we will be going ventless -- with the express sanction of the building inspector. The shingles -- well, I'm going with a quality brand, I've talked it over with them, and I'm comfortable with proceeding for lack of substantial evidence that venting protects shingles. The critical factor the mfr worries about is not shingle temp (the same shingles do fine all the way from Minnesota to Arizona) but roof deck movement that may undermine the shingle attachment and integrity. I am investing in a rock-solid roof deck of 1/2" 4-ply (about $100 extra in mat'l and strong enough for roofers playing leapfrog), and we're not exactly in a sun-baked climate in VA.
*
I'm building a lake cottage and am ready to finish the roof work with a ridge vent. (Inspector says no to unvented roof). What's the better product in general, the aluminun "Filtervent" or the plastic "Shinglevent II" - both from AirVent Inc. I realize that the Shinglevent is designed to be covered with shingles, which would be nice to look at, but I don't want to sacrifice performance for looks on this.
thanks in advance,
Dave