Replies

1. 
   FastEddie1 | Jun 03, 2003 02:53am | #1

   Can you get to it from the backside and slip a sawzall blade in to cut the nails off?  At least then you olny have to pull the nails out of half the thickness.

   Do it right, or do it twice.

1. 
   Arnold1 | Jun 03, 2003 03:12am | #2

   Hmmm, I'm not sure if I follow you. The two nails are sticking up and nailed into the joist. Could you explain in more detail? Actually, maybe I could cut the nails off and hammer in the new nails so they miss the nails buried in the joist?

1. 
   FastEddie1 | Jun 03, 2003 03:58am | #3

   Without a picture, I'm blind as a mole.  But you mentioned cutting off the nails, so maybe we're in the same ballpark.  If you can get the nails cut off and remove the head end, don't worry about  driving in the new ones.  But maybe you should consider screws...they have an undo feature.

   Do it right, or do it twice.

2. 
   CAGIV | Jun 03, 2003 07:59am | #4

   just cut them flush with the top of the joist as ELCID said.

   Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark, Professionals build the Titanic.

1. 
   Arnold1 | Jun 03, 2003 02:51pm | #6

   Will I be able to cut without kickback? There are deck boards about 1/2" to the side of each nail.

1. 
   CAGIV | Jun 03, 2003 03:12pm | #10

   Arnold,

     If your careful you should be fine, but if your worried you could cut by hand with a hand saw, or take a sawzall blade and cut it down so the stroke is short enough to barely if at all hit the other board, or lift the other board up use a flat bar to lift up the board just enough to allow the sawzall blade to slide past Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark, Professionals build the Titanic.

1. 
   Arnold1 | Jun 03, 2003 03:44pm | #11

   Thanks to everyone for the advice. I'm sure all of the suggestions will work. I just have to fgure out the best method given the field conditions.

1. 
   CAGIV | Jun 03, 2003 08:39pm | #12

   Arnold something else I thought of, have you thought about how you are going to fasten the new deck board down under the railing

   Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark, Professionals build the Titanic.

2. 
   Arnold1 | Jun 03, 2003 09:21pm | #14

   Please offer me your advice. I was thinking of using a finish nailer with the hammer and driving them in at an angle. I bought ring shank nails with a small head. What do you think?

3. 
   CAGIV | Jun 03, 2003 11:37pm | #15

   Finish nails will not hold very well

   Whats on the other side of the railing, whats the board you don't want to hit with the sawzall blade?

   Is it a facia board running around the outside of the deck or is there another piece of decking on the other side, if its another piece of decking I'd take that one up and run the new piece long, to the next the joist, and cut the old one down to the new size.

   If its a facia board attached to the rim, I'd find a piece of scrap 2x something nail it onto the rim to get you to the outside of the railing and nail down into that.

   Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark, Professionals build the Titanic.

4. 
   Arnold1 | Jun 04, 2003 12:13am | #16

   I'm using 8d 2.5" ring shank siding nails which the lumber yard told me would work fine.

   The other side of the railing is the fascia board over the last joist around the outside of the deck. The fascia board is above the lattice skirt.

   The rotten deck board is removed so there is open space with an exposed joist. On each side of the open space are deck board. If I Sawzall the nail I was concerned that after it cuts the nail it could slide or kickback into one of the in tact deck boards. Maybe I'll first cut inwards toward the other nail and once the first nail is cut, I'll cut again but in the opposite direction which will give me more room in case the saw slips.

5. 
   TrimButcher | Jun 04, 2003 01:59am | #17

   Okay, there's something I'm missing here.  See if I'm reading this right:

   1) Rotten deck board that has already been removed.

   2) Fascia board interferes with getting at nails from outside of deck, also interferes with any deep cuts with sawzall blades.

   3) Lower railing interferes with prybar getting at nail heads.  I'm assuming this lower railing is some 3" or so above deck boards?  Or are you saying it's resting on the deck?  If you've got 2 or 3 inches, I can't see the problem.

   You mentioned something about concern for other deck boards when prying?  If you can get a prybar under the nailhead, then just put a thin piece of wood or metal under the prybar to protect the deck.  It won't take much.

   Or can't you just bridge the removed-deck board opening with a piece of 2x4 and use it as the fulcrum of the prybar lever?  (Using the prybar in it's long-orientation, not it's short nail-pulling head, assuming your prybar has claws at both ends - see jpeg at bottom of this reply)

   Failing that, there is a $2 tool in the plumbing section.  It's a handle that holds a hacksaw blade at one end only.  Cut nails off with hacksaw blade.  Slow, but guaranteed not to damage.

   Regards,

   Tim

   
6. 
   Arnold1 | Jun 04, 2003 02:06am | #18

   Yep, that prybar would have solved the problem. I used my DeWalt reciprocating saw and it cut through the nails like butter. Power tools rule!!! Thanks for the advice.

7. 
   CAGIV | Jun 04, 2003 07:48am | #21

   8 ring shanks will work fine thought you said finish nails which are different.Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark, Professionals build the Titanic.

3. 
   Luka | Jun 03, 2003 08:04am | #5

   You need a good hefty pair of end nippers.

   A good heart embiggins even the smallest person.

   Quittin' Time

1. 
   Arnold1 | Jun 03, 2003 02:53pm | #7

   That might be an alternative if avoidung saw kickback is impossible. What exactly are end nippers used for? Thanks.

1. 
   FastEddie1 | Jun 03, 2003 03:06pm | #8

   Kickback with a sawzall is common and not too much of a problem, especially with cheap blades.  Notice that we did not suggest cutting the nails with a circular saw. 

   Do it right, or do it twice.

2. 
   Piffin | Jun 03, 2003 03:12pm | #9

   used for nipping off nails by carpenters or trimming horses hooves by farriers. But it sounds like that your nails are in under a railing that would preclude that tool from reaching the nails.

   A pair of side cutters would do the same job.

   However you get it done, cutting them off is what you need to do. .

   Excellence is its own reward!

4. 
   JohnSprung | Jun 03, 2003 09:19pm | #13

   It's a non-standard tool for carpentry, but for auto body work there's a thing called a slide hammer.  It's a steel bar maybe 2 ft. long with a big weight that slides along it, with stops at both ends.  On one end there's a handle, and the other is threaded to accept attachments.  In body work, the attachments are mostly hooks and screws.  Using a slide hammer to pull on the hole in a flat bar while the claws near the hole are under the nail head and the far end is held down with one foot might work. 

   That would get the whole nail out if you want, but the standard thing is what has already been suggested, just slip the metal cutting sawzall blade between the pieces of wood and abandon the cut off ends of the nails in place.  It all depends on how much time you want to spend on this puzzle.

   -- J.S.

5. 
   ProDek | Jun 04, 2003 07:32am | #19

   Arnold- take a catspaw and remove the nails from the deck board on the inside working out toward the railing. Insert a flatbar after you have removed the nails from about 4-5 joists and lift the deck board up toward the rail, after you get the board lifted all the way to the rail, place a square or flatbar or crowbar or short piece of wood under the board you are lifting and let the deck board back down.

   Waalaa! The board will either pop up with or without the nails. 

   Try it! You'll like it! 

   Bob

   "Rather be a hammer than a nail"

   

1. 
   Arnold1 | Jun 04, 2003 07:45am | #20

   do you have any tips about driving the nails in under the rail? Should I drive them in at an angle and use a finish nailer to bury them into the deck board? The railing is about 3" above the end of the deck board. Thanks.

1. 
   ProDek | Jun 04, 2003 08:31am | #22

   Arnold- dont drive the nails in . Grab the nail with some vise grips and put a pry bar between the vise grips and the joist and pry the nail out.

   It's all a leverage thing..............Bob

   "Rather be a hammer than a nail"

1. 
   Arnold1 | Jun 04, 2003 02:48pm | #24

   Actually, I'm referring to driving in the new nails in the new deck replacement board. With the railing three inches above the joist, I can't drive the nail straight in. I could drive the nail in at an angle, but then how do I drive it down flush with the board? Thanks.

1. 
   ProDek | Jun 04, 2003 05:18pm | #25

   Oh sorry about that, I misunderstood. We don't drive our nails anywhere except from the fastener store to the jobsite. We shoot them in with nail guns. :-)

   In your case you could toe nail them in from the outside perimeter of the deck and set them with a nail set.Bob

   "Rather be a hammer than a nail"

2. 
   Arnold1 | Jun 04, 2003 05:29pm | #26

   Thanks. A nail gun is the next tool that I want to buy.

3. 
   ProDek | Jun 04, 2003 06:39pm | #27

   Just tell the Wife you REALLY need one to fix things up around the house.........

   She'll understand...........Bob

   "Rather be a hammer than a nail"

4. 
   Arnold1 | Jun 04, 2003 08:18pm | #28

   Hah and I'll drop the hint that Father's Day is soming soon.

5. 
   JohnSprung | Jun 04, 2003 09:23pm | #29

   > A nail gun is the next tool that I want to buy.

   For DIY projects where maximum productivity per man hour isn't the top priority, I'd go with a palm nailer if you don't already have one.  Much easier and faster than a hammer, they make driving a 16d nail easier and about as quick as pushing in a thumb tack.  They fit in confined spaces where neither the big pneumatic nailer nor the hammer can reach.  Much safer for the infrequent user than a nail gun -- or even a hammer for that matter.  Search out some of the previous threads on nail gun injuries before you decide.  Also check out the palm nailer threads in "Tools"

   -- J.S.

6. 
   Arnold1 | Jun 04, 2003 10:20pm | #30

   Can the palm nailer be used for interior finish carpentry such as door/window trim, base and simple 2" crown moulding?

7. 
   CAGIV | Jun 04, 2003 10:51pm | #31

   Some palm nailers may be capable of driving a finish nail, but no they should not be used for interior trim.

   You can get by fine with hand driving most trim if your not going for production, but for crown it makes life a whole lot easier if you have a nail gun, or narrow crown stapler.

   Most HD and Lowes have rental departments where you can rent a gun and compressor for about 30 a day if you didn't want to buy them, but a decent trim gun and small pancake compressor will run you around $400, so you can base your need to rent/buy based on how often you anticipate using it.Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark, Professionals build the Titanic.

8. 
   JohnSprung | Jun 06, 2003 04:11am | #32

   The palm nailer would usually be not particularly practical for finish work, but then again a big framing nailer would be even less so.  There's a third tool, the small trim nailer, that's ideal for that.  It lets you hold the wood with one hand, and attach it with the other.  That's lots more convenient and precise than trying to hold the wood with one elbow, the nail with that hand, and the hammer with the other hand. 

   I haven't tried to put a finishing nail in the palm nailer, but I think it would tend to get off on an angle because of the small head, which would make it very hard to do accurate work.  You might start the nail by hand and then pick up the palm nailer, but why bother?  For little finishing nails, it would probably be easier just to hand hammer them all the way.  You'd have to pick up the hammer and nail set to sink the finish nail anyway, because you don't want the mark that the palm nailer would leave around the nail head.

   The palm nailer is mainly for putting big nails in small places.  It can do everything the big framing nailer can do, only slower and safer.  That makes it an ideal DIY choice.  The pros need the speed of a pneumatic framing nailer, the versatility and safety of the palm nailer is probably a better DIY choice unless you're building a whole new house.  The speed gain of the framing nailer over a palm nailer is a lot less than the speed you gain going from hand hammering to a palm nailer.

   -- J.S.

6. 
   poorsh | Jun 04, 2003 08:48am | #23

   Hi Not sure without a picture but a long time ago i was helping a friend redo a deck and an "Old F**T" was several boards ahead of me. I looked over to see why I was so slow and found out his technique. Instaed of trying to pull out the nail he whacked it in with the hammer. This loosened the nail which promptly came out with a fraction of the brute force and ignorance I had been using.