I am preparing to drywall my cathedral cieling, 2 x 10’s, 16″ OC. I have noticed some differences in the horizontal plane between the joists. Some of the joists vary as great as 1/4″ when I lay a level across several joists. I have seen some homes where there are 1 x 2’s installed perpendicular to the joists, others where the joists have been shimmed to get a flat plane. Any suggestions as to what is the best method? I am using 5/8’s drywall. A second question, do I do the cieling first or the walls first?
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Ceiling first. The walls support the edge that has minimal nailing at the edge of the rafters.
As for the purlins or 1x2's, Hopefully there isn't going to be that much continuing movement. if it is going to move then they may be your best bet. Shimming would be simpler or even sistering a 2x4 to the bottom side of the joist on the large offenders could straighten the plane and give you a flat ceiling.
Or you could put your butt joints on the lifted joists. Then screw tight and cover your tracks with mud.
Right on Booch. You might want to string a line at a few place to see how bad it is . but if you only have one out you could sister it into position. Taking into acount how your seams and if the fall on that joist of course.
You might want to strap it out and shim and strap it anyway. It might make for a nicer job.
Not a drywall guy only a carpenter.
Ditto. I think Tim Mooney described once his technique with a string and two different colored markers. Say black was low and red was high, then he planned his layout based some on that. For the low, cardboard shims work well. Too high, I keep a razor sharp slick in the truck for just that sort of thing.
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I've always strung lines across the rafters and if theyre more than three quarters to.......... which is pretty typical I run 1x4's using the same method....string lines.
Most ceilings I've done are up to an inch and a half out if not more.
also depends on how long the room is.
Its a serious pain in the arse but its usually the "only" way to get a perfect ceiling if thats what youre after.
Roof rafters are rarely crowned perfectly.....Theyre not "made" to rock to...theyre made to roof to.
sometimes you get lucky but its rare in all the cathedral ceilings I've rocked.
Using 5/8th is definatly the way to go by the way and a panel lift fer sure...Specially on cathederal ceilings.
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i would first cover the rafters with 4x8 sheets of styrafoam or equivalent at whatever thickness you can afford or will work. then i would rip 8'x3" pieces of 5 ply 1/2 inch plywood and install perpendicular to rafters. then install drywall to 3"x8' strips. you can adjust the strips as neccasary as they will dent the styrafoam, check with straight edge in both directions(up and down and sideways) this will also better insulate the ceiling, the most important part of the insulation, and allow you to use long drywall (4x12 instead of 4x8) and you will have no butt joints in the field only the beveled joints for a much better and longer lasting without cracks finish
I never used the sheets of insulation that way. Do you mean that the insulation is between the rafter and the plywood straps? I like the plywood Idea.
Once you know where your High and low spots are, and how they will affect your starting points on either side. I run the 1 x (perp.) screw them to the rafters O.C. (after you've done the math) After you know what and where your highest and lowest points are. Then I run the string over each one, Individually. I use a piece of 3/4" stock. One at either end. And one in your pouch to check each strap, at each intersection. then you can run the screw out if you need too, then glue it and shim it. adjusting to the string, with your block. Being off ( a Bit ) out of level from side to side isn't as noticable as being off in the middle of the ceiling.
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Edited 5/14/2003 8:52:30 PM ET by MuleSkinner