I’ve got a challenging roof flashing detail. On my 1900 Victorian the wood siding goes straight down to the shingles and has been caulked over the years. I know this is not right and is failing as edivence by some leaking below the area photographed (below). I need to repair this and several options have been presented by various roofers and contractors. It’s worth noting that there is sheathing or vapor barrier behind the siding, only framing. This is also in Colorado so snow does accumulate on the roof. The main area is about 40′ long and there are also two dormers with a similar condition.
Any opinions are most appreciated!
Option 1: Cut Back – Using a saw cut all the siding off about 2″ from the top of the shingles and insert step flashing to tuck up under the siding.
Option 2: Step flash, no cut back – Try to wedge step flashing up as best as possible which will probably only get it about 1/2″ up.
Option 3: Flash Outside – As shown in the picture attached. Flash on top of siding and fill with caulk. Problem is the gaps that would be created by the profile of the siding. Also relies heavily on caulk for water proofing.
Option 4: Kerf fit – Run a saw kerf a few inches up running parallel to the roof and insert flashing in kerf to prevent leakage.
Option 5: Your Brilliant, fast, affordable solution!
John Cage
Replies
Seth,
I guess you don't want to hear this but I would remove the old siding, strip the roof reflash and reside,keeping the siding up off the roof about an inch.
If there is flashing there you might be able to reroof and use the old flashing.
Vince Carbone
Vince,
Wouldn't VERY carefully say cutting the siding, just deep enough to get to framing, do the same thing without removing tons of siding? Indeed, sliding the flashing up would be easier with it removed, but a quite a price!
Thanks.
Seth"Nothing is a
mistake. There is no win
and there is no fail . . . there is only
make."
John Cage
Seth,
you can cut the siding,I think two inches up is to much but I don't think you could cut at just an inch.Even cutting it at two inches will be difficult at best. Having cut siding be fore, I can tell you cutting with a circular saw is hard to control,you're going up the roof can't see the line and your roof is not straight the angle changes.It will not look very nice when done.
As far as your siding goes it may not be rotten but it looks like crap. If there is only one layer of shingles then either the step flashing is there or it was removed.Is it possible that when this roof was redone they left the flashing and put the shingles over it?
If you were to remove the siding at the very least I would add blocking in between the studs to give the flashing some backing.
Of course, it's your house so you can do what ever you want,but you asked us we didn't ask you.Vince Carbone
You have more than one layer of roofing on that job. It has already been done the shortcut way once - which is why you are leaking. The only way to get it right is take things off and put them back right.
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Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately, the old layers have been removed befored the last reshingle. There are two exposed edges of shingle showing at the ends which to me indicates the last courses of a single roof. I wish there was space from just removing an old layer!
Seth"Nothing is a
mistake. There is no win
and there is no fail . . . there is only
make."
John Cage
Seth,
Your siding is toast, and your roof is questionable.
I don't see a shortcut through the woods...........you're gonna have to take the long way around.
Eric
I Love A Hand That Meets My Own,
With A Hold That Causes Some Sensation.
May I ask how you've come to that thought? The siding is in fine condition and not soft at all. I've been up and inspected every foot of it. The roof isn't soft either underneath. Is there something else you're thinking of?
Thanks.
Seth"Nothing is a
mistake. There is no win
and there is no fail . . . there is only
make."
John Cage
>>The siding is in fine condition and not soft at all. I've been up and inspected every foot of it.
Ur not serious are you?? You sure you posted the right picture?? Anyone else here see what I'm seeing in the second photo??
EricI Love A Hand That Meets My Own,
With A Hold That Causes Some Sensation.
Option 1: Cut Back - Using a saw cut all the siding off about 2" from the top of the shingles and insert step flashing to tuck up under the siding.
If the siding doesn't need replacing AND there is something besides framing behind it then option 1 is the correct choice. I wouldn't cut 2" off, though. Cut the width of the outside of your saw fence to the blade. (It's worth noting that there is sheathing or vapor barrier behind the siding, only framing.) I think you're telling us there is nothing but framing.
Here's what I've done in this situation, although I'm not crazy about the way it looks (but it works). Cut the shingles back enough to get new step flashings in. Install them on the outside of the siding. Then install counterflashings over the steps and up under each course of siding just like the bottom of each piece of siding was the mortar joint on a chimney. If you cut your counters all the same, the stairstep doesn't look too bad and can be painted with the siding which hides it somewhat.
I invented inventing stuff.
If I was doing the job (in fact did a similar one a year ago), I'd remove all the claboards, and roofing. Layer of ice/water shield both on the roof and 12" up the wide of the wall, followed by flashing, then new clapboards spaced at least 1" from the roof, and replace the roofing also. Snow and ice are going to build up where the roof / wall meet, and eventually cause problems. The ice/water shield / flashing route should prevent the problem. Granted not an easy way out, but sometimes the "long way home" approach works out in the end.
Joe
Renaissance Restorations
Antique & Victorian Home Restoration Services
http://www.renaissancerestorations.com