We have a 1940’s wood frame home that sits on a block foundation. We are adding an addition. Upon removal of a deck, I found that the (excuse my lack of knowing the correct terminology) exterior 2 x 10 floor joist was rotting. If you remove the siding on the house it is the 2 x 10 that the exterior 2 x 4 wall is built on. What would be the best approach to remove this, and replace? Would I have to use jacks underneath on the other joists while I remove and replace? ANy other thoughts? Thanks.
Edited 11/29/2004 7:06 pm ET by sailfish
Replies
Tell us a little more detail. Is the rotten 2x10 (often called a rim joist) resting directly on the block, or is there another board, possibly a 2x6, under it, lying flat on the block? If so, is the lower board (mud sill) also rotten? Are the other joists parallel to or perpendicular to the rotten joist?
You are correct it sets on a 2x6 "mud sill" that is also rotted
The floor joists run the same direction as the "rim joist".
The others are unaffected (no rot)
There appears to be no sagging of the wall at this time.
The floor joists are 16 o.c.
Thanks!
Any other suggestions out there?
Thankshttp://members.fishingworks.com/bo444444/index.cfm
"You are correct it sets on a 2x6 "mud sill" that is also rotted
The floor joists run the same direction as the "rim joist".
The others are unaffected (no rot)
There appears to be no sagging of the wall at this time."
The way I do this (in summary) is:
1) Strip the first 2-3 feet of siding and sheathing over the damaged area, and one stud over into the good area on either side.
2) Attach a ledger board to the studs with lag bolts. Ledger should span damaged area + 1 stud. Ledger must be beefy enough for the span and load.
3) Lift under ledger with screw jacks. Ledger should be protected with some steel angle to prevent compression. You just want the studs to lift a hair off the plate to minimize chance of interior cracks. More jacks can be used to cut the span.
4) Cutout the rot, and replace. I like to use PVC roll flashing under the new sill to create a moisture break that will not react with PT lumber. Foam sill seal is generally too thick for a repair job.
I think these jacks are the ideal tool for sill repair lifting:
http://www.gearshop.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=21&Product_ID=1297&CATID=22
Note that you may find that your new 2x10 stock is wider or narrower than the old. If wider, you can rip a little off. If narrower, some shims ripped from cedar would be good.If you can't get the ledger-and-jacking scheme described by csnow to work out, you can generally get away with replacing the joist and mud sill about four feet at a time. If you do this, either set the new joist in 1.5" so you can come back with a full-length second layer, or use something like pieces of 2x6 behind each joint to allow you to screw things together.If the new deck ledger will be bearing against the rim joist you may also want to place some sort of blocking behind the joist to keep it from shifting inward, and maybe even a couple of all-threads between it and the next floor joist to keep it from shifting outward.
If the remaining floor joists are running parallel to this rotted rim joist then it makes things a lot simpler.
Another question, though: What is above the rotted members? Is it a single story wall, or two stories? And is the eave side of roof above that, or the gable end?
You should probably do some exploring (drill some large holes in the rim joist, if you can't easily get in behind). Find out if the rim joist is just a single board, or if it's doubled-up. Also, check as best you can for any "surprises" behind the joist.
Single story wall, on the eave.
I won't have to drill large holes, I can stick my arm through the rot! The rim joist "was" a single board.
Also I'm able to easily crawl under the house and have noticed that there doesn't appear to be any other damage.
I think the probelms arose from a wood deck installed years ago right next to the wall. Plus we had essentially 100% canopy of trees. With 60+/- inches of rain a year, it stayed pretty wet in the backyard.
http://members.fishingworks.com/bo444444/index.cfm
Edited 12/1/2004 9:50 am ET by sailfish
From looking at the fishing site (if it's yours), you need to open your home to some of the northern fishermen here, get them out onto the water for a few days and trade 'em a priceless vacation , plus travel for what you need to do.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Hmmmmmmmmmmmm sounds very intriguing.
Just not too sure I could convince you guys to come down for a day or two on the water AND help with the remodel in your "spare time" LOL
Yep, it's my website, boat and fish.
http://members.fishingworks.com/bo444444/index.cfm
You need to take the weight off that 2 x 10 before you try to remove it. You can build a temporary wall in the basement under the floor joists to suppert the weight, or lag a ledger to the studs on the outside of the house and jack under that until the weight is removed. You onlt need to just barely remove the wieght; if you jack too much, you could crack the plaster/sheetrock, or possibly even cause some structural damage.
BTW, if I'm visualizing your description correctly, that 2x10 is the rim joist. It sits on a 2x sill plate, right?
Shep, a little hint: When the thread was started five years ago, probably no one's still waiting for an answer.
OK, I reads some of your other responses. Supporting the floor beams isn't going to work in your situation. You're going to have to lag a ledger to the house wall, and jack on that.
You can cut the old 2x into small chunks with a recip saw to get it out more easily. Just make sure there are no wires or pipes behind it before you start cutting.
Shep
They got you on this one.
Rotting wood
Submitted by sailfish on Tue, 11/30/2004 - 03:04.
in Construction Techniques