Rough in for under Counter Lights
Currently wiring a new kitchen and I am stumped on the rough in requirements for under cabinet lighting. Planning on going with 120v halogen strips as they can be dimmed.
I have wired for low voltage under cabinet before, and as the other active thread suggests – a transformer is placed in the cabinet and low voltage wiring spliced to the pucks.
What has me confused in this installation is the method in which I will protect the romex. My current plan is to install a junction box (in the lower cabinet or attic) and run separate romex feeds (3-5) to each of the lighting units. The romex will be stapled to the studs and stick out of the wall 12″ (no conduit – or wire mold – yet). Then after the cabinets are installed (and hopefully the romex will be in the right place) the romex will be covered with either a false bottom (wood) or wire mold – which will be shoved into the drywall 1/2″ or so.
Any suggestions?
Replies
That's what I do. I rough-in the romex so it comes out of the wall somewhat higher than I expect I'll need. You can easily carve the rock to move the romex down. In contrast, moving the romex up means doing a nice clean repair on the rock that will be visible.
Thank you - Very good advise on erroring to the up side!! Will do.
Dean
I used to do low voltage halogens under wall cabs, but gave it up because the bulbs burn hot, need more frequent replacement, and dealing with the transformer is a hassle.
Kichler and others make xenon-bulb units, specifically for use in undercab situations, that are the cat's meow.
Line voltage romex right through the wall under the cabs, wire 'em up, dim control if you want from a wall switch, and you're golden. No xformer, no early bulb burnout, much lower bulb replacement cost, switch on/off/hi/lo right on the modules (in addition to the wallmount dimmer I use), and you can string them together with their interconnect wire modules.
A 1-1/2" light rail around the bottom of the cabs hides everything.
Ditto on the bulb replacement problem. We installed some for a guy in an upscale house (he got the fixtures, good ones). He is replacing bulbs all the time. He went back to the supplier and got lower wattage bulbs, but the things still get so hot that the problem is still there.
Hadn't heard of the xeon.
Any exposed romex lower than 5' from the floor needs mechanical protection, so your false bottom sounds good.
Have you checked the xenon strips? Long lamp life, fully dimmable, less heat.
"Any exposed romex lower than 5' from the floor needs mechanical protection, so your false bottom sounds good."
No, it follow contures of building materials. If it is in an area that does need mechanical portection there is no 5' limit.
Xenon does seem to be the way to go.
Interesting comment on the mechanical protection requirement. Looks like the vendors sell pigtails that connect light fixtures without any mechanical protection... Makes one wonder if these short lamp cords are supposed to be protected as well.
Before you order up the xenon, look at em, they are not very bright. The halogen will melt stuff in the cabs above. I used some inch flourscents with warm white bulbs and quiet electronic ballasts. The color is near the zenons and the price is a third...
Here ya go. Here is what I use, and I'm never doing halogen again. This is Kichler's 4-bulb unit, with hi/lo/on/off rocker switch. One-inch depth.
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