Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 02, 2000 12:56am | #1

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   Bill,
   Rough sawn fir siding once was the standard in the area south of Chicago I build in. We put it on just about every house I worked on in the 70's and early 80's. The product we installed came in 4x8 and 4x9 sheets and was 5/8" thick. We used cedar 1x4's and 1x6's for corners and trim. Vinyl siding has all but replaced that product now because fir went way up in price and it proved to be a lot of maintenance.
   Semi-transparent stains are what we used for those wanting to see the grain, but I think most people that originally had semi-transparent, re-stained using a solid stain a few years latter. The siding definitely looks a lot better with a solid stain and will require a new coat every 5 or 6 years to stay nice looking. The vinyl siding guys are making a killing now a days covering up all that old fir from 20 years ago.

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   Guest_ | Mar 03, 2000 04:33am | #2

   *Use a solid stain. Plywood products are not made or warrantied for semi-transparent finishes. My own preferance is to use an oil-base product.

2. 
   Bill_Harbstreet | Mar 03, 2000 05:58am | #3

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   Bob - Thanks for the advise. By the way, do you have any experience with door jamb extenders? I will have 2x6 walls and when talking to the door people in the big blue and orange warehouse stores, they have recommended them. Would it be better to special order doors with 2x6 wall jambs? Thanks in advance.

1. 
   SCOTT_E._CHADBOURNE | Mar 03, 2000 06:13am | #4

   *FIR SIDING IS ALSO A LITTLE ON THE COSTLY SIDE.ROSEBURG IS A GOOD BRAND. MAKE SURE TO LEAVE 1/8" SPACING BETWEEN PANELS. ON THE BACK OF THE PANELS YOU SHOULD SEE AN "APA" TRADEMARK STAMP. UNDER THE "APA" THERE WILL BE A PANEL GRADE THAT STARTS WITH THE NUMBER 303 WITH A FACE GRADE TO THE RIGHT OF IT. THE BEST IS 303-OC {CLEAR}, THEN 303-6 {6 PATCHES ALLOWED}, THEN 303-18 {18 PATCHES ALLOWED} AND THENUNLIMITED OR 303-30. IN SOUTHERN ILLINOIS, WESTERN KENTUCKY AND S.E. MISSOURI ALOT OF YELLOW PINE PLYWOOD SIDING IS USED AT 2/3 OR LESS THE PRICE OF FIR.

3. 
   Guest_ | Mar 03, 2000 06:48pm | #5

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   SCOTT, QUIT YELLING AT US!!!!!

   Haven't you noticed this is a quiet and soothing place, where everyone speaks with dignity and respect?

   ;-)

   jim

4. 
   SCOTT_E._CHADBOURNE | Mar 04, 2000 03:22am | #6

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   sorry... was trying to cover up my inability to ttype

5. 
   Guest_ | Mar 04, 2000 03:41am | #7

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   I tried to save some money on a spec house years ago and put the pine siding on instead of the fir. It was a big mistake. The pine was very unstable and I paid the price of replacing it for the homeowner. I have used pine only for interior work since then.
   Bill, I like to have the extension jambs and sills factory applied for doors installed in 2x6 walls. It makes for a quicker installization and trim out too.

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 04, 2000 04:55am | #8

   *The problem with using fir as siding, whether it be T-111 or dimensional lumber, is fir does not take or hold paint very well. It will split and crack before you know it and there you'll be replacin' it. Bite the bullet and buy the cedar. It makes sense in the long run.

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   Guest_ | Mar 04, 2000 05:40am | #9

   *>a quiet and soothing place, where everyone speaks with dignity and respectFor a moment there, I thought I had stumbled into the library! Thinking I didn't even know Breaktimei hada library!Rich Beckman"dignity and respect" LOL

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   Guest_ | Mar 04, 2000 06:48am | #10

   *When I finaly get around to building a house for me and my wife, there ain't gonna be one stinking piece of wood on the outside of it. I've replaced enough rotten exterior wood on other people's houses to last me a life time.Ed. Williams

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 04, 2000 06:28pm | #11

   *What are you gonna use, Ed?

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   Guest_ | Mar 05, 2000 06:43pm | #12

   *Jim brings up a good point. Fir has become so expensive why not spend a little more for a quality product like cedar? Did I hear someone say, "Vinyl is final".Bob (don't call me Vinylhead) Woodhead

6. 
   Richard_Keevil | Mar 06, 2000 03:20am | #13

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   Vinyl is final, until it fades after 3 years, gets brittle from uv and basically looks like carp after 5 years. I've replaced more rotten wood behind vinyl siding than properly installed and maintained wood.
   Think about cement siding, blind nailed, factory finished.
   Buying mill work from the box stores, my experience is low quality hanging, paper thin casing edged, forget air nails. Better off at your local lumber yard. Good luck.

7. 
   Bill_Harbstreet | Mar 06, 2000 03:20am | #14

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   I am looking for the "wood" look and cedar isn't in the budget. My builder is recommending rough sawn fir siding. What is a good way to stain and seal while still keeping the grain visible. also how well will the fir siding do in a midwest climate, hot/humid in summer and cold/dry ing winter. Thanks