Replies

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Dec 28, 2006 07:04pm | #1

   You can rough out the segments with a bandsaw or a saber saw.   To get the final shape, use a router with a circle-cutting jig.

2. 
   Sphere | Dec 28, 2006 07:20pm | #2

   If you could post as  jpeg I'd open it, but other than that, I'd bend laminate it in strips. Scarf the ends, and band clamp it.

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.

1. 
   jimscustomwoodworks | Dec 28, 2006 08:58pm | #4

   here is a jpeg, thanks for your time...

1. 
   Sphere | Dec 28, 2006 09:20pm | #7

   Thanks.

   I'd just make certain the routered edge of the top was PERFECT, with a trammel and a light cut on final pass.

   Then mill strips to the maximal bending radius for the given diameter, depending on species and M/C and glue/clamps available, just "TAPE" it.

   A radiused built up edge is so simple, some get waylaid by the thought, and start thinking about segmenting..a BAD IDEA in my opinion, the substrate and resulting issues will open the joints.

   If you want a good result, laminate the sucker around the circle,and off set the end joints, with sequenitally sawn lams.

   This requires a certain amount of tooling and preparedness, and good follow thru with glue clean up and milling.

   Do you understand the properties of the adhesive? Do you know the bending elasticity ( and M/C) of the stock? Do you want to use an aliphatic resin type glue, in a steamed wood? Do you want to vacuume a cold bend? With maybe a series of years in the exponets, you'd forget that you had to ask..

   What is the self feed ing subleties?  Just trying something new? or the dreaded " I can"...?

   I have dreaded the " Because I CAN"  jobs, becqause, it turns out to be a certain mix of disaster and self aggrandization..but thats me.

   I'd just wrap the suckkker and get on with something else.

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.

1. 
   jimscustomwoodworks | Dec 29, 2006 05:38pm | #9

   i am thinking your idea is the best option but am wondering about a few things- how to get top milled flush with the laminate field, what kind of glue works best, i have used titebond in the past for aprons made like this but have heard about "creep". thanks again for your help!

1. 
   VaTom | Dec 30, 2006 05:21am | #12

   Not sphere, but aliphatic resins (Titebond) do creep.  Resourcinol doesn't.  Also allows longer assembly time.  Dark glue line.

   I wouldn't use a router to trim the edge.  A plane is much safer.  If you get a good glue-up, nothing wrong with a cabinet scraper.

   The last one I did was Philipine mahogany.  Thought I had it all done, left the clamps on overnight.  Upon removal, the mahogany exploded.  Not enough internal strength for the thickness I'd used.  Cut it all off and reglued with thinner strips, no problem.  That was a 6' diameter table.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!

2. 
   jimscustomwoodworks | Dec 28, 2006 09:13pm | #6

   i will be laminating as your stating to make the apron underneath but i dont know if i can get  the laminations good enough to stain & to be visible.

3. 
   TomT226 | Dec 28, 2006 08:26pm | #3

   Can't open it either.  If the lam covers the bulk of the banding, why not just rip enough 1/8" oak to veneer the face, then edge the lam?

    

1. 
   jimscustomwoodworks | Dec 28, 2006 09:10pm | #5

   good point on the 1/8" oak, customer may go for that. but they requested matching some existing square tables with 3/4" thick banding.

4. 
   DougU | Dec 29, 2006 05:41am | #8

   Jim

   Do what Sphere is telling you, no need for me to rewrite it! I've done it that way numerous times and its very easy to do.

   Doug

    

1. 
   jimscustomwoodworks | Dec 29, 2006 05:40pm | #10

    am thinking your idea is the best option but am wondering about a few things- how to get top milled flush with the laminate field, what kind of glue works best, i have used titebond in the past for aprons made like this but have heard about "creep". thanks again for your help

1. 
   DougU | Dec 29, 2006 10:02pm | #11

   I've had no problem with yellow glue, titebond or any of the other yellows.

   As for milling the band flush with the laminate............be very careful!!!

   I sand and scrap(card scraper) to get it flush, obviously you have to be very careful but its doable.

   One thing that I've resorted to on banded edges where its difficult to sand flush without damaging either laminate or veneer is to make my band with a downward taper, that eliminates the need to make the whole band flush with the top, only that last 1/32-1/64th" or so. I can finish/shave that off with a chisel from the laminate side if need be.

   One other way that I've added banding especially in the case of radiused work, is to bend it in a jig, then run it through  the planer to flaten it, then all you have to do is clamp it onto your table top. You can do this in segments or all at once if your really daring! You could use pocket screws on the bottom side if you need added clamping but usually bar clamps with liberal glueing will do the trick.

    There will be minor clean up but at least you dont have to plane or clean the intire glue up while its attached to your top. This usually works better for me. Even if theres a little spring back in the glue ups you'll still be able to clamp it to your table top.

   One other thing, if your conserned about "creap" you could use epoxy of resorcenol glue, there less prone to  creap.

   Doug