Replies

1. 
   jhausch | Oct 04, 2006 06:05pm | #1

   Could the door be a regular shape slab (arched raised panel) on regular pocket door hardware, then trim it out as an arch?  You'd have to hang the door before applying sheetrock to the arch.

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   An online journal covering the preparation and construction of our new home.
1. 
   CloudHidden | Oct 04, 2006 06:20pm | #2

   Didn't know if that's how it was typically done, if there is a typical. Haven't seen this in person, so didn't know if a partially opened door would look stupid with the arched panels and the flat open edge. I guess I could split-open it...that's a good combo.Anyone do this and have good or bad results?

1. 
   DougU | Oct 05, 2006 04:13am | #3

   If it's a slab door you could do it the way that the other poster suggested but I wouldnt do a stick and cope door that way, it'd look pretty foolish, unless of course it was an arched stick and cope door.

   Theres no reason that you cant do a arched jamb for the pocket door, it'd require some custom work on the door in order to hang it on the rail but that doesnt seam like to big a challenge.

   Doug

2. 
   zak | Oct 05, 2006 04:43am | #4

   To expand on what Jhausch said, what about 2 narrow slab doors (18-24"), meeting in the middle of the arch? 

   If you made a single arch top door for the spot, you'd have to connect the top of the door very solidly to a peice of wood or steel that is parallel to the track.  The action on the door wouldn't be very good if the rollers were too close together.

   zak

   "When we build, let us think that we build forever.  Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone." --John Ruskin

   "so it goes"

    

1. 
   Piffin | Oct 05, 2006 05:24am | #6

   that's how I did it. Photo in other PC 

    

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3. 
   BarryE | Oct 05, 2006 05:12am | #5

   Here's one way I've done it.

    

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   Barry E-Remodeler

    

   
   

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   Edited 10/4/2006 10:15 pm by BarryE

4. 
   McDesign | Oct 05, 2006 12:57pm | #7

   Jim - here's a doorway that I built for our back hall.  The doors started as a pair of yard-sale 2'6 10-pane French doors; I split them vertically, took out 12", re-arranged the mullions, and put in old glass in each in a single column of five panes. 

   I used a double National sliding door kit - it's important to put a tight-fitting beveled bumper block in the center; the doors are so tall and skinny that they can "kick" as they hit the center stop.

   Found the transom in a salvage shop; it's probably 1970s.  The segmented trim (from old casing) is crude, but it matches the 1886 original that this door faces, at the entrance hall end of this hall - even the overhang at the edges

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   Forrest - I am in communication with Sheelah

1. 
   CloudHidden | Oct 05, 2006 02:48pm | #8

   >Forrest - I am in communication with SheelahCool. Choosing one is a personal decision, so do whatever works for you. She's done fine by us.Thanks for the pix.

5. 
   Frankie | Oct 05, 2006 04:06pm | #9

   You're getting good replies.

   When doing pocket doors, we make the pocket side stile 1" wider than the opposite stile so when the door is closed, there is still some door in the wall and the pocket doesn't become visible.

   This would be difficult to do with an arched door, however you could laminate a 1x to the arched doors pocket edge, run it long so its length matches the door's height and attach the second carriage to it.

   A key pocket door component is the floor guide. Do not omit it. I prefer the type that incorporates a groove on the underside of the bottom rail. This is another reason for some of the door to always remain in the pocket.

   For the hardware, we have had great success with the Grant 5150 units.

   Frankie

   One creates these beautiful dishes. Then people destroy them with their teeth. You might like to take a photograph of your own grilled sole with samphire. It won't be as good as mine but it will be something.

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