Anyone have a router table they recommend under $200? Home depot only has Ryobis near me. I really don’t trust their tools after a few bad experiences in the past. But Lowes did have a Bosch router table for around 180, which I am definitely considering. Any recommendations for online stores also?
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Discover a concrete-free foundation option that doesn't require any digging.
Featured Video
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Fine Homebuilding Magazine
Fine Home Building
Follow
-
Fine Homebuilding
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial Now -
GBA Prime
Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
- Home Group
- Antique Trader
- Arts & Crafts Homes
- Bank Note Reporter
- Cabin Life
- Cuisine at Home
- Fine Gardening
- Fine Woodworking
- Green Building Advisor
- Garden Gate
- Horticulture
- Keep Craft Alive
- Log Home Living
- Military Trader/Vehicles
- Numismatic News
- Numismaster
- Old Cars Weekly
- Old House Journal
- Period Homes
- Popular Woodworking
- Script
- ShopNotes
- Sports Collectors Digest
- Threads
- Timber Home Living
- Traditional Building
- Woodsmith
- World Coin News
- Writer's Digest
Replies
I have a Bosch that I bought about 3 yrs ago. i thought it was a little pricey, but it is well made and works well.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
I love my Bosch table. They changed it for awhile but I think they brought a comparable model back. I have the one that is plastic based with the metal table.
For a little while you could only get the particle board model.
I agree the table was a little pricey out the door, but it has more than paid for itself. I even bought an extra base for it so I only have to put the motor in and go.
I am not sure but I have been contemplating Rocklers router table. Maybe someone else can chime in with info on it.
i have one of the rocklers and it is really good. it is made of MDF, which scared me, but it works great.http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10167
Buy an insert and make your own. You'll get a much better table for the $200 you can sink into one that you build over anything that you can buy for that $200.
Doug
I'm with DougU on this one.
I built Norm's router table from New Yankee Workshop plans. I used mostly scrap material I had laying around, but bought the insert. I dropped my old Bosh 1611EVS in it and it has been there for close to ten years. Norm's newer version has some refinements that mine doesn't have, but would add if I used it a lot.
Even if I had to buy the materials today I don't think they would come in much over $200, and I would still have a table with a larger surface area and better dust collection than I have seen in the tool catalogs.
It is however, a shop tool. Not somthing I would try to lug out to a job.
Yup
Ditto Dave, who ditto's Doug.
Build your own.
The functionality of a router table depends on what you rout. I don;t own a shaper, but I have 8 routers and mill almost all my own trim with routers.
Built a table to suit your needs. It'll make you a better craftsmanwomanpersoncarpenter.
I have a Freud, but without proper space for a workshop it's sitting in the barn.
Anyways, eventually I'll use nothing but the fence and insert from it. I'll make a proper table with some shelves, a handy switch for the router, and one for the shop-vac.
This is simply not one of those things it's better to buy.
I can also recommend the Rockler. I've had mine for 7 years and it has seen a lot of use and has held up fine.
Elections belong to the people. It is their decision. If they decide to turn their back on the fire and burn their behinds, then they will just have to sit on their blisters. ~ Abrahan Lincoln
Elections belong to the people. But sovereignty is mine to take from them.
~ Abrahan Lincoln
You can't get a decent router table for under $200.
I would recommend the Bosche RA1200 Deluxe Router Table ($349 at Amazon.com):
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-RA1200-Deluxe-Router-Table/dp/B000051WS0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1206759148&sr=8-1
Solar & Super-Insulated Healthy Homes
Thanks for the insight. This table will be used 90% of the time on work sites so it will have to be transportable. Ill have to check out Norms plans for the router table. Where did you buy the insert? Do you buy a fence also?
Rockler has them. I think you can even buy some sort of kit that has the insert and fence and probably some extras as well. As for portability you might look at the Roseau table saw stands. They can be attached with router tables as well. I personally don't like the little 18" tall stands.
Get the Freud. It has outstanding dust collection and micro-adjustment. It is truly collapsible and very light. You should be able to get it for about $150 at Lowe's.
I have the Freud and the Bosch. I find myself using the Freud as a first choice almost all of the time.
Later, when you have time, you can build your own router table at your leisure. You can use the Freud to help you build its replacement. Then you can use the Freud fence on your home-built table. Thus you will have a great shop router table and a great portable. Just move the fence when you have to route away from home.
cwc09
Approach this from a differant perspective. Look at shapers instead.. here's why.. With a router table the best of them have issues while even a cheap router table has features no router table offers..
A router table is part of the package.. a good router which soon will become dedicated to the table is also required.. In theory you'll move the router back and forth however in practice you'll need your router to be the tool it was intended to be which is moble..
a router table is an accident waiting to happen.. it will slide and move unless you spend additional time clamping it in place.. `Long pieces of molding, wood etc. will tend to tip it over.
A router screaming at 13,000+ RPM to make the horsepower claimed quickly dulls cutters and is risky to make major stock removals with.
A shaper on the other hand may operate at as little as 4000 rpm and the cutters last many many times longer than router cutters because of it.. True you can use router bits in most shapers but you can't use shaper cutters in any router.. Not to mention you won't have to deal with the scream of 13,000+ RPM..
Weight wise router tables are a little lighter than a small shaper maybe 40 pounds or so when complete but lighter has it's down sides as I've pointed out..
Finally Price.. Grizzly will sell one like I had for $295.00 Good little shaper.. When I sold mine I asked $150 for it and it only had a few hours on it.. I just wanted to one pass everything so I bought the $900 one.. It's edged tens of thousands of board feet and I've yet to need to sharpen any cutter..
About cutters.. cheap basic router bits are around $15.00 each while similar shaper cutters cost about $6.00 more. Against that are far less frequent sharpenings and much longer life..
Just for information
Grizzly sells great basic tools really cheap.. I was so happy with the jointer I bought from them I boughtall of my shop equipment from them eventually.
In over 7 years I've had only one breakdown.. a $5.00 fan belt broke but my local hardware store had it in stock..
That's 40,000 board feet of hardwood. Everything else came out of the crate perfect and has been flawless since..
It really is good basic wood working equipment! http://www.grizzly.com
If I had to move it in and out of a job site all of the time I'd buy a hand truck to go along with it.. . roll all your tools in on the hand truck (some call them 2 wheelers) then come back for the shaper, save your back..
Edited 3/29/2008 1:52 pm ET by frenchy
Frenchy
If I had the time, or the desire, I could list some one hundred and fifty-three reasons why your damn shaper will not do what my router table will!
You bring that same argument to the table each time the discussion comes up regarding router tables/shapers. I have both and couldn't live without either, nor could I do what I do without either one of them. And most importantly, you could not do with a shaper what I can do with a router table!
Not going to argue this one ad noisome either
Except the fact that a shaper will not do everything.
Doug
Doug,
How true,, I have yet to teach my shaper to fetch or even read.. So you are right it won't do everything..
However if I want to router something I use the router if I want to shape something I don't attempt to make a router do a job it's not well suited to..
Apparently you must know something about router tables I don't. I can never find the reversing switch on a router table. Where is that?
Apparently you must know something about router tables I don't.
I think that about sums it up for us!
Thanks for paying attention
Doug
LOL! Good for you Doug. I could learn a thing or two from you about not getting sucked in. Planet Frenchy is a tough place to comprehend.... it's best to not feed the animals there!View Image
doug,,
Good come back, but you still didn't answer where's the reversing switch on router tables?
Frenchy, why is it exactly that a person wants to run a shaper backwards? Not joking, just asking.
I have a number of routers and two router tables. I have considered getting a shaper, but am not doing enough work to justify it at this time. I'm just curious about the actual differences.
two head machines sometimes will have a CW and a CCW head so that two apposing cuts can be made in one pass....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Sasquatch,
Several reasons,
You can invert shaper cuttters and get a different profile/partial profile from the cutter. However to run it that way the dircection of cut must be reversed,,
you can do climb cuts (dangerous, but done frequently enough that there are actual procedures) for woods that have a high risk of tearout..
you may be able to access something from only one way..
plus several other reasons.
If you do get a shaper do yourself a favor get something that will single pass your biggest cut. I bought the small one I recomended and while it was as powerful as my 3 hp routers I couldn't single pass those really big raised panels..
The more frequent you need to go over something the greater the chance for an error to creep in and ruin your work. I found that especially true with really long (19-20 foot long) projects. I bought my bigger shaper and now I can single pass everything with the result I make fewer mistakes and waste less wood.. The $500 differance in cost between the entry level and a professional shop grade shaper has been made up many times over..
Is your shaper 220V?
Sasquatch,
This one is, my first one wasn't. About 2 horsepower is the dividing line 2 hp and less 110 over 2 HP and 220.
PS the 3 HP your router makes is not the same 3HP a shaper makes You can do everything with a 3/4 hp shaper that a 3 hp router will do..
You forgot the second most important feature of a shaper..the power feeder. Makes everything more safer and better, but at the added expense.
There is still no reason to be so adamant about router tables not being worthwhile, they do have thier place, I'd not be without one.
I have 3 right now..and no room, $, or Power for a shaper, and I still make a living without one.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Welcome to Poo-ville, can I have your socks?Seriously Folks, I need a home for 3 lovers of your life.
Sphere,
A power feeder is a nice addition one that some would not be without.. However getting a power feeder onto a router lift table is really difficult.. I seldom see that choice made..
While it is true that I have not used all lift tables most of the more modest priced ones are too flimsey, too light to be stable on larger longer pieces.
If you limit the size of your work I'm sure there are lift tables out there that are acceptable. But with a shaper that stability, that strength stops being the deciding issue.
You can work with small pieces on a shaper. however you can't safely work with big heavy pieces on a lift table. Finally the power feeder that you are enamored with (and is nice) overwhelms a router lift table..
At my Dad's cabinet shop, they do nothing but climb cuts with power feeders. I was surprised when I learned that.
Biff Loman.
I've seen a lot of climb cutting done but I chicken out. When I do it I make sure all the safety stuff is in place working and adjusted properly. I admit to free handing a lot of stuff on the shaper. To me the shaper isn't nearly as dangerous as the table saw
Yeah yeah yeah...Let's get to the important stuff.Do you shellac the bit, or the table ?Or both ?
Life doesn't often leave a very easy trail to follow.
Sure shapers are great.
But the OP wrote: "This table will be used 90% of the time on work sites so it will have to be transportable."
In this case your 350 pound 3hp shaper would indeed be great...for giving him a hernia.
Mongo,
54 to 68 pounds is the differance in weight between a router lift table of the same size and capablity as the shaper I suggested.. I also suggested an easy way to handle the weight which will provide additional capability. Plus make your day easier..
You've got to start thinking out of the box or you'll look around and find yourself stuck in one..
It doesn't matter if you're recommending a 350 pound shaper or a 290 pound router table "alternative". Neither would be considered job transportable.
"You've got to start thinking out of the box or you'll look around and find yourself stuck in one.."
Why are you getting snippy with me? WTF, you want it back? Am I supposed to write something pithy like:
"If I wanted to think outside the box like you, Frenchy, I'd go get a lobotomy."
Relax there, Sunshine! Winter is almost over.
Hey, how's the timberframe coming along. The interior of your house? Those were some awe-inspiring big hunk o' wood photos. Gorgeous.
Mongo
Mongo?
Grizzly used to sell a table top shaper that was lighter than a Router lift table. I think it sold for around $150.00 but I wouldn't consider that a suitable replacement for the shaper I started out with which weighs 172 pounds..
Put that on a two wheeler or hand cart and you can easily roll into a building and up flights of stairs. I prefer pneumatic tires for the typical rough terrain but I've seen carpenters lug equipment in with them using solid or semi solid tires.. the advantage of a two wheeler is that you can easily haul tools in with one trip that would take you several trips without a two wheeler. Once bought you'll find a million uses for it. The one I have moves my band saw around a lot. 3rd floor, 2nd floor, shop floor! I find it relatively easy to roll my 300# band saw up and down stairs. I pause at each step because I'm getting old and fat but it isn't all that tough..
The advantages of a shaper are many but since I tend to work with longer heavier pieces a router table simply isn't stable enough to begin with.. In addition I mentioned the durability of cutters to remain sharp, quieter, able to safely work with far larger cutters, reversable, and at $295.00 affordable.. (I sold mine for $150 used)
It's true, my currant shaper weighs 350 pounds.. but that is because it is intended to stay in my shop.. If I went moble I'd grab my 2 wheeler and get another version like the one I had at first..
I tend to agree that building your own is the way to go. I have built lots of them. I also have a shaper with power feed that makes alot of operations much safer...........
Anyway here is a system that might give you some ideas for building your own.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&cat=1,43053&p=43885
On a hill by the harbour
CWC,
http://rt1000.com/index.html
This router table is just a little more expensive than your limit but may be worth saving up for. It is essentially a rendition of Norm's table. Although I don't own one of these, I can assure you that it would service you much better than the Rockler, or the Bosch table.
FWIW: a friend of mine has the Bosch table from Home Depot and is not happy with it. Specifically, he doesn't like the plate; says it has flex in it causing it to bow slightly lower than the router bit while running stock through.
gk
Edited 3/30/2008 9:39 am ET by Dreamcatcher
The boys over in Knots have some threads on building a
router table that fits in the Bash table saw Lief.
If you have that saw it is a nice set up.
good - build as much or little as you want
http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=RT01--
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright