I have to repair a rubber roof. Can you any pointers on this process? Do I need primer or seem cleaner? How do I clean the old rubber roof to get the new one to stick? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
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My roofer uses gasoline to clean the area that the patch will be stuck to. His repairs don't leak.
Of course you could buy the cleaner from the supply house as well.
how big is the repair?
what are you using as a repair material?
is this a temp fix or a permanent repair?
I ask because it is a lot easier to fix a small puncture than it is to repair a large tear or open flashing.
Peel n' stick flashing tape can easily fix a puncture. Just use 409 or similar cleaner and a brass bristled brush to clean the surrounding surface of the membrane. Apply a circular patch and use a roller to make sure it adheres then seal the edges with lap sealant.
If you are doing something more elaborate, there are many different techniques and materials.
One thing I do know is I was told by a roofer to not repair rubber roofs with "bear sh*t", or tar. It actuallly eats the rubber over time, use the real brush on sealer that looks like contact cement.
i'm with rob,clean with gasoline,use the adhesive from a rubber roof supplier on both pc's and stick it. i tried a tire patch once,lasted about 90 days! larry
hand me the chainsaw, i need to trim the casing just a hair.
Denatured alcohol...gasoline sounds pretty damn dangerous to meeeeee
A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...
but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying,
"Damn... that was fun!"
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Edited 3/17/2007 10:22 pm ET by andybuildz
Alcohol doesn't cut it on EPDM. Can leave some residues behind. Gas is standard. White gas is cleaner and a bit safer.
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I'm no pro at rubber, but we did have one help us a few months back on a job. He is Union in Cincinatti and had some free time.
He( we) cleaned with 409, then we brushed on solvent based ( it was cold) adhesive on both the strips, and the roof. We then used the really sticky tape on the roof with the release paper still on, rolled it down, then gently liad the patch strip over that, and pulled the release paper out from under. Followed by a roller on the patch we rolled till it was flat and smoothe as could be.
Then we used the caulk on the edges of the seams.
From what I could learn, it was a fool proof fix, if done properly.
I also learned that a big pair of scissors is the bomb for cutting the rubber cleanly, like sewing scissors, 9'' blades and really sharp.
I hate rubber and don't want to get good at it, but it was an educational type thing." I press my lips against her name"
Ditto what Shere said, only use white gas to clean and use a heavy duty schotchbrite pad to scrub. Rubber is not all that tough to work with. You just gotta get the details!
409 - ?
Is that the kitchen and floor cleaning stuff? I just have an inkling of a memory there....
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Yes, it is a detergent that Derrick said works well, and it seemed to do a fine job." I press my lips against her name"
OK, the whole thing with detergents is "What residue will it leave?"
A detergent would do well at removing oils and grime.I don't know, but I'd want to be sure - in direct relation to how valuable things are under this roof. Solvents are what I was taught, but I'm not against using whatever works.
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It pretty much vanished when we wiped it down. I've used it on glass without smears, so I guess for a porch roof it was OK.
We had relined Box Gutter and stripped in with new rubber to the transition from copper to rubber roof." I press my lips against her name"
Sounds good to remember
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Is this roof actually rubber? EPDM?
Or is it Modified Torch Down?
If EpDM read this.
http://www.rvdoctor.com/roofing.html
Use laundry soup and water for large areas to get them ready and rinse off.
Use mineral spirtits for a small spot removal. Never use gasoline.
Make sure you use the glue and piece of the same type of roofing for the patched area.. Don't use tar.
lw,
Go to your supplier and purchase their cleaner, rubber to rubber cement, roller and some lap sealant. Do it right the first time, charge accordingly. Read the instructions to allow for proper tack time, I've seen several "He Who's" apply the cement and patch without letting it dry to the proper tack, creates a nice bubble as it swells the rubber.
Saw
Bing,bing,bing,bing!
saw wins the prize!!!!!!!!!
why not just do it right
supplier will sell you a quart of the proper cleaner----which will last forever---------and also properly clean and soften the rubber in preperation for bonding in a way 409 never can
splice adhesive------gallon can
tube of lap sealant---or geocel
scrap of epdm
less than an hour of time----jobs done------although technically you should come back the next day to hit the lap sealant
stephen
I have repaired a lot of rubber tubes in my youth . like a tube patch job , rubber roofing needs to be clean and preped with the proper solvent so the glue will work. If you can't get the cleaner solvent from the big box go to the tire store and get a can of buffing solution . that goes on after you have cleaned the rubber of dirt and grime . them it has to be dry. Next the buffing solution . Now you can apply the glue ,made for rubber roofing , let dry to a flat haze . You should not have any shinny spots , lay the patch strip in place,roll down lengthways then crossways. If it is just a small puncture a tube patch will work.
yes--- part of the beauty of EPDM is the relative ease of repairing a puncture
finding the puncture----not always as easy
and the ease the epdm is punctured in the first place-----makes it not quite the perfect material for flat roofs it might seem to be.
stephen
a) You can easily repair your rubber roof with EPDM Coatings Liquid Rubber.
b) Any original EPDM rubber roofing system requires only one coat of EPDM Liquid Rubber.
c) Clean you rubber roof from any dirt, debris and oil residues using appropriate cleaner available on the market.