FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

running 3 way switches between buildings

mower man | Posted in General Discussion on November 27, 2011 03:06am

Hi all.  have a question about wiring a subpanel in a detatched building.  Couldn’t find a good answer on prior postings or interent and have gotten mixed views from locals.  I have a detatched building about 200 feet away.  I have installed 1.5 inch conduit burried in the ground between the house and this building.  I already bought #4 wire so my subpanel capacity will be limited by this wire size. 

1st question: what is the biggest size breaker that I can saftely install with this wire size, the distance(not quite 200 feet), and the other wires that I would like to put in the same conduit(see question 2)?  I am planning on running 3 #4 wires for two hots and a neutral and 1 #6 wire for grounding back to the main house panel.  Can I get away with a smaller ground? 

Also, there are no water pipes or anything else between the buildings but since I am running three way switches between I figured I can’t pound in a ground at the garage and have to run a ground back to the main panel.  Is this correct?

2nd question: I didn’t think at the time and only installed one conduit.   I would like to install two seperate three way switch circuits between the buildings.  I would have a switch in the house and a switch in the detatched building for each circuit. (two circuits so 4 switches total, 2 in house and 2 in detatched building).  I know that usually you run four wires for each three way circuit(hot, neutral, traveler, and ground).  I was wondering if I could share the same ground wires and even the neutrals for both seperate circuits in the conduit.  So any help on the number of #12 wires I need to pull to make this work would be great.

 

Thanks. 

Reply

Replies

  1. DanH | Nov 27, 2011 05:43pm | #1

    I'm pretty sure that curent code requires you to BOTH "pound" a ground (or two) at your building and run a ground wire back to the main building.  Used to be that you could forgo the ground wire back, but that changed maybe 10-15 years ago.

    90 degree C #4 copper has an ampacity of 89 amps in conduit.  [Though I see other charts saying 95.  Nice to see such agreement!]  But note that this is generally "for not more than 3 current-carrying conductors in the raceway".

    You can, in general, share grounds between circuits in a single conduit.  Dunno about the ground size -- I think the code normally allows you to go one size smaller for ground, but I'm sure there are all sorts of exceptions.

    But for remote 3-ways (where power is supplied from your building and the "remote" switch is back in the main building) you would not provide "hot, neutral, and traveler".  Rather, you'd supply hot and two travelers.  Hot goes to the common terminal of the switch, the two tavelers return back to the traveler terminals of the second switch (in your new building), and the common terminal of that goes to the light.  The neutral connects to the other terminal of the light.

    So for two 3-ways on the same circuit you could get away with a single "hot" (and shared ground), but you need two travelers for each switch.  I count five unique wires plus the shared ground.  Supplying "hot" from the main building wouldn't do any better, unfortunately -- then you'd need 4 travelers and a neutral.

  2. Scott | Nov 27, 2011 09:24pm | #2

    The issue of whether the outbuilding should have it's own grounding rod or whether it should be bonded to ground from the main panel has been discussed here many times over the years, and it seems to waver among local ammendments to the code. Here, (BC, Canada) it's almost always bonded back to the main service panel, with animal barns being an exception. Other jurisdictions see things differently. If you're pulling a permit for the job then I'd definitely ask your inspector. It may save you a headache in the long run.

  3. gfretwell | Nov 27, 2011 09:59pm | #3

    The basic ampacity for 4 ga copper THHN is 85 amps @75c

    Since 2005 (NEC) you need a 4 wire feeder for the sub panel and you have needed a ground electrode at the detached building for much longer than that. The ground and neutral are separated in the sub panel.

    As for your switch. if both of the lights are on the same circuit you could share the hot or the neutral, (depending on where you source the load) but you still need 2 travellers per switch.

    This also bump into the problem of derating when you have 8 wires in the pipe. You can only use 70% of the 90C ampacity. That will not be a problem for your 12 or 14 gauge branch circuit wires since they are conservatavely rated in the ampacity table. The problem arises in the 4ga wires. You start that at 95a x .70 that gets you 66a and you can round up to 70a.

    At 200 feet out, you might want to limit yourself to 70a anyway just for voltage drop issues.

    *****

    NOT my legal opinion ... you could use the 85a and never have a heat problem since the 4 travellers are only going to carry a couple amps but you still are dropping 10.5v on the trip.

    *****

    BUT IT ISN'T LEGAL.

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Podcast Episode 685: Patching Drywall, Adding Air Barriers, and Rotted Walls

Listeners write in about running a profitable contracting business and ask questions about patching drywall, adding air barriers, and fixing a patio poured against the house.

Featured Video

A Modern California Home Wrapped in Rockwool Insulation for Energy Efficiency and Fire Resistance

The designer and builder of the 2018 Fine Homebuilding House detail why they chose mineral-wool batts and high-density boards for all of their insulation needs.

Related Stories

  • The Trump Administration Wants to Eliminate the Energy Star Program
  • Podcast Episode 685: Patching Drywall, Adding Air Barriers, and Rotted Walls
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Patching Drywall Near a Shower
  • The Unabashed Maximalist

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers
  • Issue 327 - November 2024
    • Repairing Damaged Walls and Ceilings
    • Plumbing Protection
    • Talking Shop

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in