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Safe room construction design/specs.

oops | Posted in Construction Techniques on May 1, 2007 10:51am

Does anyone have a web site etc. where I can get the design criteria for building a save room for new construction. Thanks

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  1. [email protected] | May 01, 2007 11:26pm | #1

    Safe from what?

    If it is a storm room, FEMA has plans available.  Do a google search for FEMA 320 safe room



    Edited 5/1/2007 5:03 pm ET by Jigs-n-fixtures

  2. User avater
    CapnMac | May 02, 2007 12:15am | #2

    Yeah, safe from what?

    You do realize, don't you, that, despite everything else being laid bare on the internet, there are those who do not want safe room details very public?

    Ok, that scans as overly sarcastic, and that's not meant.

    Here's what I got after googling:  http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&client=firefox-a&channel=s&rls=org.mozilla%3Aen-US%3Aofficial&hs=VSH&q=safe+room+specifications&btnG=Search

    And, it's lean, real lean--lots on storm safety, not so much on cooll hollywood stuff like in the eponymous movie, though.  (And there's reasons for that, too.)

    Even worse, I'm going to be too tied up in other stuff this weekend, when I'll be in Arlington & N. Dallas, to offer to give a look-see/info sharing, which is a bummer since video securty and facility security are on my resume (or, just the sort of person to at least talk to).  Which would still be true if what you meant was a built-in safe, as well.

    Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
    1. [email protected] | May 02, 2007 01:08am | #3

      If he builds the FEMA box, it would do pretty well as a shelter from intruders too. 

      There are a few things I might change, but not many.  The walls and ceiling are stout, the 14-gauge steel door has triple deadbolts.  If I were making it literally bullet proof, I would add another layer of plywood and CMU to the exterior.  And, reinforce the door somewhat.  There isn't much that can be designed that can't be destroyed, if someone wants to put forth the effort.   

      The bad guys would eventually break in, but only after quite a bit of time and effort. 

      1. User avater
        CapnMac | May 02, 2007 02:39am | #4

        If I were making it literally bullet proof, I would add another layer of plywood and CMU to the exterior. 

        Yeah, that FEMA box is good, I liked the "Universal Design" plans on the Charles Schwab site, too--barrier-free dimesnions would tend to "camoflage" other indented uses, too. 

        Now, the nice people at ArmorTex, just down the road in Schertz can actually set you up with resistant panels and door and window frames, all to one DoJ spec or another, which would be a hair easier to install than doubling up the FEMA wall.  Wall panels and HM frames & windows/doors rated to .308 resistance ought to be good against even an F5.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

      2. toolbear | May 02, 2007 06:53am | #7

         If I were making it literally bullet proof, I would add another layer of plywood and CMU to the exterior. 

            Drain rock = cheap bullet-proofing.

        If you want cheap bullet proof, be advised that 3.5" thickness of 3/4" washed drain rock (the pebble survivors of millions of years of erosion) will stop a rifle.  Not pea gravel, not crushed rock, washed drain rock pebbles.

        Suggest that you frame with steel studs to avoid 2x4s, that will not stop a rifle.

        We have done a number of these for gun club as baffles, safety areas, etc.  One rifle range had 3.5" rock layer from the shooting position roof forward.  Had 15,000# of rock up there.  King County nearly @@it, but the engineering was fine.  Got built. 

        I chronographed a tournament on an indoor range using a 2x6 wall of this stuff.  Thousands of hi-vel pistol rounds at 10' into one small area. No issues. 

        There there is the range at Missoula with the bullet proof bathrooms - all concrete, all the way to the roof.  They screwed up the door bucks, so the loo door did not want to close - and how to adjust it, eh?  (Doors were away from the range side.The ToolBear

        "Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.

  3. User avater
    OracleDesign | May 02, 2007 03:07am | #5

     

    We completed a home three years ago and included a 120 square foot FEMA guideline safe room (tornado shelter).  But we elected to utilize this as our laundry room complete with cabinets, sink, etc.  The complete unit was poured 4000 psi concrete with 5/8” rebar 12” OC vertically and horizontally.  Walls and ceiling were 7” thick.  We elected to use standard concrete forms rather than IFCs (Insulated Concrete Forms) because the shelter was in the central part of the home and added insulation wasn’t necessary.  Additionally, we wanted to make the most use of the available space didn’t want the added dimension of the foam.  We prepared the slab under the shelter with 24” piers to bedrock in addition to 30” deep and 30” wide footers attached to the piers.  

     

    There are a number of companies that construct and market steel doors to meet or exceed FEMA guidelines. I found a custom industrial door company in Fort Worth, Texas that would build a FEMA spec’d door (and steel frame) for about half price to the others.  I just had to obtain the specifications for them.  It took about three weeks to complete from order date and was complete with four ball bearing hinges and holes for three deadbolts and door latch.  One note, make sure your door opens to the inside of the room.  You don’t want to be trapped by house debris piled against your (outward opening) door.

     

    After having been through several tornados over the years, this was money well spent. 

     

    http://www.nssa.cc/NSSA/shelter_quality.htm

    http://www.wind.ttu.edu/Shelters/Shelters.php

    http://www.texastech.edu/stories/0604-storm-shelter.php

  4. DougU | May 02, 2007 04:02am | #6

    I can give you the name of an architect in Austin, Texas that has designed a few houses that have safe rooms, not storm safe either, although they would probably weather a storm or two.

    Doug

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