Im putting an estmate out there in a few days. The HO wants new windows in the house and wants cheap ones or ” the cheapest I can finds”. I say O.K. So, Im thinking of using sash replacements, instead of new replacement windows. Has anyone used sash replacements? Do they save labor? Do they work?
Jacobuild
This 654-sq.-ft. ADU combines vaulted ceilings, reclaimed materials, and efficient design, offering a flexible guest suite and home office above a new garage.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
We've got a saying around here.
"Only a rich man can afford cheap windows."
Andersen is one of the best values in windows.
The answer for your job depends on what the condition is of the existing ones. Do jambs and sills show rot?
Why does the HO think they want replacements and why do they think they want cheap?
Excellence is its own reward!
What is the condition of the existing window frames? They need to be equally good for replacement windows and replacement sash. I have used wood replacement sash in cases where it is important to match the look of the original wood windows and vinyl would be out of place. You can take out the old weights or spring balances and put in new vinyl tracks with tilt balances (for double-hungs). This is no easier or cheaper than complete vinyl replacement units, however.
Remember one thing: Just because the windows are cheap, your labor is not. It might atually take longer to install cheap windows than quality ones.
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
The window frames appear to be in good shape. They are protected by storm windows. Ill check with the supplier see what options I have. Thanks to everyone for the advice. Also, the exteriortrim is asbestos; so, im trying to avoiding it altogether. If I dont have to take the exterior trim off that would be great. Bobby
Safety first, quality second, production last.
My son put in the Marvin sashes with side tracks. worked well but it was all special order. requires exact measurements. expensive too.
I've used Marvin replacement sashes with spring ballasts in order to match true divided light double hungs downstairs. None of the upstairs met egress codes, while the tilt-out replacements did.
They went in very quickly and easily. Can't remember how much they were, but I'm sure they weren't cheap.
It was a great labor saver however, since neither interior or exterior trim , siding, or plaster needed to be messed with.
Clampman
And, yes, they all worked extremely well. I have heard of problems installing them in frigid temperatures because the plastic tracks break too easily - but I don't work in the cold anymore so that's not an issue for me.
You also have to be precise with your measurements, and different companies may have different methods of measuring. Marvin, as I recall, wanted the height to the longest point of the bottom sash. Since the sill usually goes downhill 11 degrees, the height varies depending on where you measure from. It's nice to have the sash lock work (and the rails line up when the window is closed.
Clampman
i have installed a couple hundred "tilt-pac" type sash kits, and have found them to be an excellent option for an older house, where those vinyl inserts would look like crapola. they are very tight if you install them correctly, and i have a dozen of them in my house.
the easiest way to measure them is measure the glass.
if the header, jambs and sill are all whacked out of square, you should order a whole new unit. i made a new square jamb once out of 1x6 and installed it square in the old cased opening, but never again.
after removing the weights, stuff the mullions full of f/g insulation.
if the sash don't meet at the check rail, a little planing at the top rail will fix the problem, unless they are clad sash. then you should have ordered a whole unit anyway.
most of the time, you can shim the jamb liners if the opening is a little too big. and if you don't want to pay the upcharge for a special width. sometimes the old stops don't want to cover the gap between the jamb liner and the old jambe, so you have to add a thin strip of wooden lattice behind the stop to make it work.
a little silcon lubricant makes the sashes go smoooooth.
as far as the bevel at the sill goes, a fella can trim the jamb liner to whatever angle he wants to, and if the windows were ordered as i described above, they still fill up the whole height of the jamb. there are bubble gaskets on most versions of this window at the top and bottommost rails that makes a few degrees of difference negligable.
the place i usually get them will pre finish the inside and outside for only forty bucks.
that makes everything easy.
good luck rg
I replaced all the windows in my colonial style with Crestline's replacement sashes for about $2800.00, compared to the $25,000 Anderson wanted, and they have more window area. Installation was a breeze, and would have been easier if the previous owner had performed some maintenance: the windows had storm windows that had to come down, and he never cleaned in there so it was moldy, etc. Someone suggested (after I was done) it would have been easier to use a sawzall to cut the old sashes in half and install the new sash liners and sashes without removing the old molding. Might work.
These work great if the jambs and framing are in good shape and are square. Mine were, except for one jamb that was mostly gone from termites, and a couple out of square enough for a breeze through, but a spacer wedge has solved those. Overall, a fantastik choice. The previous windows were only single glazed, and the storm windows did almost nothing. These new sashes are double glazed, low e, argon filled. The first winter in the house, we used 1000 gallons of oil; this past winter we only used 700--and it was much colder this year and we set the heat warmer. Our first summer, electric averaged $200/mo; last summer it never got above $140--and it was much hotter, and we set the AC cooler! We have done nothing else to the house that would have affected the heating and cooling. In short, that $2800 will be paid for in just a few years, and it has added real value to the house.
Nat
To provide a little perspective....I just got a quote for some Pella replacement windows with fancy shades between the glass...$660 EACH! Your customer might not want to go for those.
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
Get back in the truck son, and dont ever turn around...........
Believe me, That was on my mind when I saw the basement remodel that is taking place. Dont cut the tile just move it over alittle, S*&tiest work Ive seen in a while. Dont want to be in the same hood as those chumps. Need money, sometimes its hard to walk.
Jacobuild