Replies

1. 
   DDay | Sep 27, 2007 05:04am | #1

   Definitely check johnbridge and also do a search here. I believe they want unmodified because the modified takes too long to fully set up. I've used the system and like it a lot. The only learning curve I had was knowing how much area I could cover with the kerdi before thinset started to get too dry. I was doing it in the middle of the summer, so that did not help either. They have a video that is decent and their area sales reps are very good, they call back within a day at the latest.

2. 
   stevent1 | Sep 27, 2007 05:23am | #2

   allhimprov,

   Schluter recommends the use of the proper thinset for the substrate. I was a guest at CTEF earlier this month at a Schluter seminar.

   Schluter gives a 100% waterproof warranty with proper installation. John Bridge  attended the event.

   The short and sweet:

   Dryset(unmodified) thinset under Kerdi/Ditra on concrete, CBU and sheetrock. Thinset(Modified) under Ditra on plywood. Dryset to adhere tiles to Kerdi and Ditra.

   You want the warranty? Follow Schluters directions.

    

   Here are links to John Bridge and Schluter:

   http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=11

   http://www.schluter.com/

   This medallion was set with dryset over Ditra on plywood.

    

   View Image

    

   View Image

   Chuck S

   live, work, build, ...better with wood
1. 
   mwgaines | Sep 27, 2007 04:38pm | #3

   Chuck,

   Nice work. Did you design and install that medallion yourself? If so, how did you prepare all those challenging angles and cuts. Template?New knowledge is priceless. 

   Used knowledge is even more valuable.

1. 
   WNYguy | Sep 28, 2007 03:18pm | #10

   Check out Chuck's photo thread.  He did an excellent job of documenting and describing the entire process.  I think the tileword starts about here:

   79773.296

   Scroll forward or backward in the thread as necessary.  Or just go back to post #1.  Well worth it!

   Allen

2. 
   ClaysWorld | Sep 28, 2007 03:57am | #8

   Nice!

   Are all the blue tapes #s for laying out the pattern after you lay down the mud?

1. 
   WNYguy | Sep 28, 2007 03:20pm | #11

   Take a look at Chuck's photo thread.  Great photos and explanations of every step.

   The tilework starts about here, the medallion is a few posts later:

   79773.296

   Allen

1. 
   ClaysWorld | Sep 30, 2007 05:20pm | #13

   Thanks . I had watched that project then kinda let it slip off the radar screen.

   I'm on a project now so I'll have to get back to it later.

   But the ATD is ? impressive.

    

    

3. 
   Mongo | Sep 28, 2007 01:54am | #4

   Unmodified thinet (dry set) cures via a chemical reaction. No air is needed for it to cure.

   The latex modifier in modified thinset need exposure to air to dry.

   If you use modified thinet between ditra or kerdi (both air impermeable) and porcelain tile (also air impermeable), there will be insufficient exposure to free air for the modified part of the mix to dry. The thinset may not fully harden for days...and days.

   Schluter is fairly specific on what thinsets to use for certain applications.

   I think Schluter is direclty responsible for the reintroduction of dry set to a few supply houses, a few years ago dry set was getting somewhat hard to find.

   Mongo

    

4. 
   Piffin | Sep 28, 2007 02:54am | #5

   They do a very good job of explaining this in their own literture, but the short and sweet is that modxified has to dry whie unmodified will cure whether esposed to air or not

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

5. 
   Hackinatit | Sep 28, 2007 03:22am | #6

   After the tile... SpectraLock

   View Image

   This stuff is absolutely amazing! Read the directions, follow them to the letter, and smile for years to come.

   be expensive and worth it.

   "Fortunately, the ideas of individual liberty, private property, freedom of contract and association, personal responsibility and liability, and government power as the primary enemy of liberty and property, will not die out as long as there is a human race, simply because they are true and the truth supports itself."

   Hans-Hermann Hoppe

   ---

   Edited 9/27/2007 8:22 pm by Hackinatit

   
   

   ---

   Edited 9/27/2007 8:23 pm by Hackinatit

1. 
   jayzog | Sep 28, 2007 03:47am | #7

   You caught my interest, so I googled Spectralock(never had heard of it before).

   About the 3rd hit down was this forum http://www.infotile.com.au/ubb/Forum1/HTML/002450.html

   People on there don't seem to thrilled. I have tried other epoxys before and been less than happy myself, please sell me on why I should try this one.

   Till then I think I'll stick to cement grouts(we have a better understanding).

1. 
   Hackinatit | Sep 28, 2007 04:33am | #9

   You get:

   View Image

   Pre-measured liquids and solids (from Lowe's) in quantities that allow for the proper cleanup.

   The aggregate has the color, not the cement, and gives you ABSOLUTELY consistent coloration.

   The Laticrete caulks MATCH the grout colors.

   Spreads smoothly.

   Cleans easily (1/2 cup white vinegar to 2 gallons water).

   Won't stain after 7 days' cure time.

   Includes Mildewcide.

   NEVER seal it.... NEVER.

   Downsides:

   Fear

   Cost

    

    

    

    

   "Fortunately, the ideas of individual liberty, private property, freedom of contract and association, personal responsibility and liability, and government power as the primary enemy of liberty and property, will not die out as long as there is a human race, simply because they are true and the truth supports itself."

   Hans-Hermann Hoppe

   Edited 9/27/2007 9:33 pm by Hackinatit

2. 
   BillHartmann | Sep 28, 2007 03:23pm | #12

   Look over at John Bridges. IIRC they generaly like it.
   .
   .
   A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.