Hi All,
I have our original screen door (42″ X 96″, about 7/8″ thick) which also has a heavy glass storm insert that screws onto the wood. With the glass, it’s about 70lbs. The house construction is all brick, so the door opening is trimmed with wood attached to wood blocks along the inside of the opening.
My question is, what is the best way to install the door? It has previously been mucked up, and I have had it repaired and refinished. It seems like traditional surface mount screen door hinges might slam it shut too hard. It currently has mortises for 3″ hinges (3) along the door, but they were surface mounted on the frame. The previous owners just used a spring stapled to the door, which might actually be the way it would have been done (with a fancier, adjustable spring). But it still seems like it would slam too hard and risk breaking something. And I’m not certain I’d trust todays 3″ hinges either (why aren’t hinge manufacturers required to state the load capacity of their hinges?)
Thanks!
Replies
I would consider a pneumatic screen door closer. It will pull the door shut without slamming.
Upgrade to 4" brass leaf hinges mortised into the jamb and stile (use 3, if there isn't already.) Oil the hinge pin (usually steel) every so often to prevent rusting. Use at least one auto door closer, and two would probably be better. Sounds like a fairly good sized screen door, so when you're installing it, remove the glass, or borrow a few football players from the local HS.
I never cared for the screen door hinges, those spring-loaded things, though have used them in cases where they fit the decor.
Local HS? Heck, this is Columbus and my wife is on the faculty at OSU! I hear Maurice Clarret needs a job. But we do have the glass out for the refinishing anyway.How are pnuematic closers rated? What should I look for in one? Who makes good ones, and what screws/attachment devices will work well in wood (ie stay there) when the wood is about 3/4" Oak?And if I mortise the hinges into the frame (when they were surfaced mounted) won't I be shifting the door to the hinge side by the thickness of the hinge leaf? I suspect the latch might not catch anymore if I did that. It is a surface mount latch with a traditional strike mortised into the frame.
I read where your former running back is suing OSU, amoung everybody else, that right? Something about being overcompensated for doing nothing.
Anyrate, for closers, I've tried them all and am leaning toward the variety with a large restaining spring built into the unit, kinda like the restaining (limit travel) spring you usually install on the head jamb. Don't bother with the nice little number with the toe step stop, I've already had to go back to several doors I had installed them on (they were included with Andersen high end storm doors), they tend to stick in the open position.
If you don't think think the door will latch with the hinge leafs mortised, then you have two options: don't mortise the leafs, or shim out the mortised striker. Personally, I would mortise the hinges and shim out the striker, but that's just my distaste for surface applied hinges. Of course, people will probably see the shimmed striker before they notice the applied leafs, so it's one of those things you do whichever you feel best.
Any 3/4" #10/12 screw should work, as the bracket will take ~1/16" off the length of the screw; still, you might grind off the point and insert a washer to prevent bulging on the exterior side. And use SS screws, they'll last, just be sure to predrill the oak, and using an impact driver would make things easy.
I never met a tool I didn't like!