Hi All,
I have a very large deck that needs to be sealed correctly. My customer has had it powerwashed and sealed with a clear finish every year for the past several years and each spring it looks totally weathered and grey, like it was never done.
I’m under the impression that maybe the fella doing it all these years is doing a “quickie”, I don’t know. I know NY winters can be harsh on a deck, but I would think it should hold up better than it has.
The deck is in good shape, and she would like it to have that fresh sealed cedar look like when the wood is new and clear coated, but most importantly to last more than one season. Says the deck looks great after it is powerwashed and brought back to the cedar look and looks good after the sealer goes on, but like I said, I saw it and would have thought it was never sealed, just weathered.
So I would like some finishers to chime in with what would be my best approach to making this deck look great and last!
I plan on powerwashing it to remove the weathered grey and spraying it with a clear finish. I would like to know what clear finish I should use and how many coats should be applied. I’ve heard that clear sealer should be done “wet on wet”. Don’t know if that is correct, if it is, I would appreciate a little knowledge on that technique. On a side note, how long should a finish such as this remain looking “good” before starting to turn grey?
I would appreciate any advice from you guys who have dealt with this, as I would really love to make this deck look ( and last) great. It’s a super deck, and I would like to help her from having to do this every year. Thanks so much.
Mick
Replies
There are many different deck finishes, they don't all work the same. Each product has to be applied according to manufacturers recommendations. I've used a lot of different ones over the years. Film forming finishes, I stay away from, Sikkens, Penofin, etc. or you will have a lot of maintenance. I've been using Defy deck coatings lately and am impressed, particularly with cedar. I use the UV resistant after the deck wash and brightener. I haven't tried the epoxy fortified version. How long it will last depends on a lot of factors. Don't expect anything to last many years without a maintenance coat from time to time.
http://www.opwdecks.com/defyproducts.htm?gclid=CI6up-nulJICFQGAHgodJB7N7A
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Thanks for link Hammer.
Will check it out. And no, I don't expect a finish to last forever, but I think it should last more than one season, correct?
"How long it will last depends on a lot of factors"
Could you share some of those factors so as I might be better equipped to address the situation properly?
"Don't expect anything to last many years without a maintenance coat from time to time"
I basically was asking all things "being equal" how long should a deck like this, that is in good shape, that is cleaned and sealed correctly------Last. before needing another coat?
Hi Mick, You should get several years with one application of the Defy. Some adverse conditions could be, overhanging landscaping, large shedding trees, particularly white pine, not removing snow, scraping with shovels or ice scrapers, a deck that retains water, no gaps between the boards, accumulation of debris, leaves and such, direct sunlight in a desert area, using dark colors in that situation, leaving mats or carpet on the surface, bird feeders over the deck, fire pits, kids roller skating, flower pots, salt, sand, ice melt products, etc.If the finish is not applied by the manufacturers instructions, deck was power washed, not allowed to dry before top coating, inclement weather during the application, over or under application, all can effect the coating and longevity.Re-applying a coat of Defy is easy if done before the previous coats have degraded. When I used it and the prep on cedar, the old gray weathered cedar looked like new. I don't often get back to jobs as the years pass. I did use Defy on my house but it was for white cedar shingle siding. I only have a few months on my siding but it looks great. Years ago, Flood made a product called CWF. It had some penta in the product which has now been banned. That was a good product but not environmentally friendly. I used their current CWF and it only lasted two years. I used a Thompsons water seal product on some concrete steps at my house, a special product for masonry. It did not last, worse it provided food for algae growth. Several years ago, Sikkens and Penofin were products everybody touted. They were difficult to apply and lasted only two years before they had to be stripped. They were very expensive and complicated for homeowners to use. Once they start to break down, water gets in and the lumber discolors. My paint store salesman said they were over hyped and thought a common oil was equally as good, without the expense and extra work.I'm not associated with Defy. It's the first product I've used since the poisons and carcinogens were removed from preservative products, that seems to be as good as the poisons, but environmentally friendly. The link I gave has a number of other manufacturers products. It may be a good idea to contact them to see what experience they can share. Decks are going to need maintenance if coatings are used. I don't think there is a magic solution for something that sits outside in the elements.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Thanks for input guys. Will get back with some questions on the mentioned products.
Appreciate it.
Hammer,
Can the Defy be spayed with either a airless unit or garden type spayer?
A garden sprayer works well for applying to decks, then back roll it. I use those 4" cloth trim rollers on railings, balusters and such. You apply two back to back, wet on wet coats. sort of piggy back sections you can handle, depending on time and sun conditions. You waste too much material spraying railings and posts and you have to mask anything you don't want coated, including grass, bushes, masonry. It will clean off if you get busy on it right away. Better to avoid it. Two guys can move right along, one behind the other. I use a brush if I have to cut in. Prepped cedar can drink it in quite fast. You don't want any wet product standing, pooling or running. It's easy to apply, you just can't hog it on. The manufacturer gives clear directions. I know I've seen a video, maybe on their website. They have several products, check accordingly.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Thanks Hammer,
I'm not familiar with the 4" cloth trim rollers, where would I get those?
Is the Defy a water based product?
Most any good paint supplier will have the 4" rollers. I don't know if the borgs carry them. They are open on one end and there are a number of roller sleeves that can be used on them. A popular one that you may see is a white foam with a round end. The cloth ones are like terry cloth, hold a good amount of material and last long on rough surfaces.As far as I know, all the Defy products are water based. I haven't used any of the roof products. They are supposed to be environmentally friendly, from the oxygen bleach in the cleaner to the top coats. These are not a solid colored stain. More of a clear or clear with a tint. It is an in the wood finish, not a film coating. Water resistant and UV inhibitors. I have a couple of pictures of white cedar shingles. I used the wash, brightener and UV clear, applied with the small roller. I just dunked the roller in a bucket and pressed off the excess. You have to be deliberate with your motions so you don't send drips flying. I had good application and control with the roller, going slow and allowing the product to penetrate, not a hurried back and forth rolling. I thought I got more product on with less mess than I would with spraying.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
I have a couple of pictures of white cedar shingles. I used the wash, brightener and UV clear, applied with the small roller.
Looks like good results from the pictures. But, where is the wash? I see the brightener on the link but not the wash. The way you wrote it it appears there are two products you are using to prep the surface.
“Some people wonder all their lives if they've made a difference. The Marines don't have that problem.” Reagan....
Failure is the condiment that gives success its flavor. -Truman Capote
Jarhead, there should be a deck wash - oxygenated on the link I posted, middle of the page, right above the brightener. I followed the instructions. I applied the deck wash with a garden sprayer and stayed out of the hot sun, allowed it to sit for fifteen minutes, kept applying to keep the surface wet. I then scrubbed it with a brush and hosed it off with a gentle garden hose spray, not a hard stream. I think the brightener may contain a little muriatic acid. The shingles looked good with just the wash. Maybe I could have skipped the brightener but I didn't want to leave out a step. Many companies make an oxygenated deck wash.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Thanks for the input. I need to do mine this spring/summer....
“Some people wonder all their lives if they've made a difference. The Marines don't have that problem.” Reagan....
Failure is the condiment that gives success its flavor. -Truman Capote
Awesome Hammer, Thanks. I know which ones you are talking about.
Does the Defy look like "milky white" when you apply it?
The customer would like to achieve that look you get when say for instance you were using CWF on new cedar, you know that deep rich kind of color with a sheen. Would I obtain this type of finish with Defy? Or is it like a "flat' or should I say "satin" finish?
ABRP.com-----------X-100 Natural Seal is the best-----however it does take experience to apply it----------i would do it if it is in my area--------lasts a few years before needing more stain however you never need to go nuts with cleaning again if it is done right------when the wood is a few years old it will take a lot of stain to soak it completely but is well worth it if you want to enjoy the beautiful wood
I would advise to be careful with the power washing. I've seen extremely raised grain from an overzealous treatment and I read someone warning that too powerful a spray can force water deep into the softer parts of the wood.
Good to know Mac, thanks.
What would be a safe amount of time for the deck to be left to dry after the powerwash?
Probably depend on the climate, weather, humidity, how much spray, the wood itself etc.?
Would you say 3-4 days of good weather would be enough?
Anybody ever use the Cabot oil based sealers like they sell at Lowes? I need to seal about 320 sq ft on my new lake cabin deck and was leaning towards this. Maybe I should go with the Defy.
On the decking I never spray. Roll it out and back brush. Much better job.
I would think the sprayer would get all those hard to reach areas better,no?
Just the spindles and some railing detail