Replies

1. 
   Sphere | Jul 31, 2009 02:26pm | #1

   I just did a fake stone chimney on a wood chase, and  I called my Concrete yard and they only had a "wet look" gloss or a 5 gal. of lesser sheen ( I only needed about 1 gallon) for 83 bucks.

   So, I shopped around and lo and behold Sakrete brand makes a sealer/curing agent in one gallon bottles, water based too. About 15 bucks. I tried it on a small area, and it didn't get glossy, which was just fine with me, I didn't want a wet look.

   I used a 12 buck bean sprayer to do the whole thing, two coats before the first dried, and payed special attn. to the joints.

   You may try that in an area and see if it suits you.

   Lowes had it on an end cap near the bags of stuff for masonry.

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations

   "If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"
   Jed Clampitt

   View Image

2. 
   seeyou | Jul 31, 2009 02:32pm | #2

   It's probably not flashed right and/or the water is entering at the top. No amount of sealer will stop a dry stacked look from leaking. The water isn't entering through the stone. It's getting in through the open joints. A metal cap on the top that is larger than the footprint of the chimney will help.

   http://www.quittintime.com/      View Image     

1. 
   Sphere | Jul 31, 2009 02:44pm | #3

   My thoughts too.

   You ready for a pepper delivery soon?Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations

   "If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt

   View Image

2. 
   woodicus | Jul 31, 2009 04:21pm | #4

   I actually think that the block behind the stone is being saturated and migrating down through to the block below and coming out onto the stone.  I could spray a sealer the best I can and get at the cracks real good and see what happens.  I can actually see in places parts of the block inbetween the stone, but they are small.

   The cap is brand new so I doubt that this would be the problem yet.  I have thought of covering the entire top (3 flue liners) but can not find a place that sells them; it would probably have to be custom made.

   Thanks for your reply,

    

1. 
   Sphere | Jul 31, 2009 07:06pm | #6

   If you need a custom cap, go to this guy, he's real good. And cheap.

   View Image   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations

   "If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt

   View Image

2. 
   Piffin | Aug 01, 2009 12:49am | #9

   "I could spray a sealer the best I can and get at the cracks real good and see what happens."Before you waste your time doing that, read this thread againand againWe already know what happens.block is extremely porous and no amt of sprayed sealer will fix that.you have to grout the joints and tool them first. THEN apply sealer. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

3. 
   Piffin | Aug 01, 2009 12:44am | #8

   Yup, now all you gotta do is stop the wind from blowing whenever it's raining.;) 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   seeyou | Aug 01, 2009 01:24am | #10

   It's not a perfect solution, but I've dried up many of those drystack look chimneys with my remedy. If they want the drystack look and don't want wet on the inside, they've got to through flash when they build it or tear it down and through flash it when they rebuild it. Or cap it and live with one or two damp spots a year vs every time it rains or snows.http://www.quittintime.com/      View Image     

1. 
   Piffin | Aug 01, 2009 03:39am | #11

   CU wins the Truth in advertising award for bringing light to a dark place! 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

   
3. 
   Henley | Jul 31, 2009 04:36pm | #5

   Even with a dry-stack look you mortar the joints.

   You lay the stone as usual, but hold the mud to the back. Then rake it
   out (out of sight that is) as you go.

   If there is block visible in places, your not going to be able
   to seal your problems away. Just to many nooks and crannies to hold
   water.

4. 
   Piffin | Aug 01, 2009 12:40am | #7

   What sort of flashings are there?

   I can't imagine trying to keep this dry without grout in the mortar joints and proper flashings. and a sealer overall.

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!