i have about 20 new clad exterior/wood interior windows to seal and stain in our new home. some are casements and i expect interior wood will be regularly exposed to our southern CA sun when open. i had orig. thought i would use a water based stain with a poly top but am now considering watco products. watco has an exterior clear. if i use that first, then follow with a color, will that help my casement issue, or should i color first then top with exterior??? or should i marine varnish over color??? please help, there are so many options and i need an effective relatively quick way to seal up the wood – the grains are a raisin’ while i finish other parts of our construction.
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First thing out of the bag.......I'm not a professional painter!
I have sold a lot of paint in my many years at retail building materials.
Here is my take on your question.................
1. If you have any raised grain or water/dirt stained wood...fix & clean as needed.
2. Apply your choice of stain...I prefer an oil/solvent based stain like Minwax.
3. Allow to dry....24 hrs is good locally due to high humidity. If you apply finish to soon the varnish coat may dissolve stain and you will have uneven coloring of the wood. 4. Apply a thin coat of finish. My choice is satin polyurethane...solvent based. You may use interior grade, or as with your description of conditions and exterior grade poly which has UV inhibitors. Watch for "runs & drips"! Coat all edges (especially end grains) with the window open and then the interior facing of the sash. Minwax, varithane or other high quality brands.
I have tried the water based products, but like/prefer the results of the solvent based clear finishes..........a personal opinion.
5. Allow to dry...lightly sand to smooth with 220 grit....wipe clean with a paint thinner dampened soft cloth. Use of a commercial tack cloth may leave wax residues that may effect the final finish.
6. Apply second thin coat....allow to dry. Rub down interior finish surfaces with a "white" 3M scotxh pad, followed by a wipe down with a thinner rag.
Some folks quit at this point.....mostly because they are tired of the regimen!
If your surfaces feel rough at this point you will need to rub down with a "green" 3M pad and then step 7 is mandated.
But I like to add step #7. Apply a third thin coat (Inside of sash only..not the edges)as a final smooooooth and satinnny finish.
And if I'm a little sloppy or the window sash is still not smooth to the touch, I will repeat #7.
Take your time.....the process will almost become a mantra.
..................Iron Helix
such was the the method i used on previous cabinets that i have built and will be the method used to finish the kitchen cabinets i will be building soon; however, with eighteen allready installed windows, a long string of rain storms, a day job, and also: three bathrooms, kitchen, stairs and floors all yet to be finished by me, i am trying to use a quicker method. do you have any experience with watco penetrating oil? the quick dry time and possibility of no clear top finish is very tempting.
I have used watco and waterlox....but only on furniture type work.
I currently have no "can on hand" to read the label, so I'm going off the cuff with the following statement:
"Watco penetrating oil is not water/weather/direct uv tolerant!"
Maybe someone has a can available will pop in here and comfirm or correct my faint recollection.
If you are short on time.....maybe the stain and the 1st coat, laid medium instead of thin. Put the other 2-3 coats on the calendar for next summer.....and hope you don't put it off or have a bigger list.
..................Iron Helix
i guess it is time to push the boulder up the hill.thanks for setting me straight.