I’ve used the Breaktime Forum in the past while doing several project, and have always appreciated the helpful responses. So I’m returning in hope of continued support in the search for techniques in selecting/installing some replacement windows. I’ve done some research, and have some questions particularly with issues with the existing window and rough openings.
My problem is that the existing windows are a typical new construction window with a nailing flange that has a fixed window over an awning window. After removing the trim and jamb extensions I have measured the Rough Opening for this example to be approx 31 wide by 41 high. The brick facade of the house covers the nailing flange and there is no molding of any type. Just the cladding, butted up to the brick and then caulked.
I’d like to replace these with Double Hung Windows to allow more air to enter the house. I also don’t want to make the R.O. smaller to allow an install of a full frame window w/ flange, because I’d have to cover the flange with some type of trim, plus the window would get smaller. Interior trim is getting replaced anyway, so that’s no the issue, but I’m trying to keep the same exterior look if possible. But a Insert Replacement using the frame from the old window is questionable also, due to it being installed inside the old frame, which in this case is a fixed over awning.
I’ve taken measurements on the outside of the house of the inside dimensions of the brick around the window opening, and found it to be approx 30 wide by 40 high. So the brick opening is smaller than the R.O. by about 1/2 inch all the way around.
I’ve researched Andersen, Pella, and Marvin, and none of them seem to have a clear option.
I’ve considered using an Insert Replacement in the Rough Opening by installing it from the inside up against the back side of the brick, using it as the stop, instead of the usual frame molding. But I’m unsure if that would work correctly. I’d hate to order a window with this plan and find out I was wrong…
I’d like to know if anyone has run into anything like this before, and what methods they used to install a new window.
Replies
Marvin for sure, pella too I believe, have a mounting clip that can be used instead of the nailing flange. The clip (strap) is fastened to the side of the jamb, brought in and nailed off/screwed inside to the framing (behind where the casing would go).
How you detail the exterior brick interface is up to you to keep out the weather.
At anyrate-you cut out the old window and deal with the original R.O.
Take a look HERE
A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Edited 9/14/2009 9:53 pm ET by calvin
BUMP
I have replaced all the original windows in my house with Marvins. They make custom sizes for an upcharge. I think it's around $125 extra.
Pretty typical construction, frame with brick veneer. The windows were installed before the brick but I cut the nails between the flange and sheathing.
Measure the brick opening and subtract 1/4 inch on each side and the top. Marvin will make the new window to this size measured from the outside of their brickmold.
You will need to reframe the RO a little smaller to have something to nail the brickmold to.
Then backer and caulk like in Cal's picture.
If this is an option for you, we can give more details. There's not much more to it, tarpaper and such.
As calvin said:
Pellas come with a fold-out aluminum nailing flange. For installation in masonry, you leave the flange against the jamb and use metal masonry clips that screw to the side of the jamb, then screw to the inside of the studs.
You may have to special order the windows if a stock size won't fit the opening; that gets expensive. Your Pella dealer can help, look on the web site for installation instructions.