Finally found myself a milwaukee Right angle drill, and I am in love, but when the bit binds she has got quite a kick… I have some dewalt self feed bits (look like a forstner bit with a lead screw) and I am wondering if the milwaukee bits or the lenox one tooth are going to be a better choice to keep me from breaking parts on me…. and…. anyone know of a source to get a spare pipe handle for milwaukee drills?
Jeff
jmmmm
Replies
The pipe's a standard thread size (black or galv pipe) and you could use a bike grip for the handle.
One tip I've heard about using them is to make the cord tight so that if it did bind and start to pull you, the cord will unplug as a safety net before your arm gets ripped off.
JT
I've heard the lenox one tooth are worse than the standard self feed. I don't know how, I think it would be less likely to bind. When your using it, just make sure you never let your grip anything other than tight. I always use the pipe as another handle, and as said, standard pipe will work. I think its 1", just get a 12" black pipe nipple at a supply house or HD/Lowes.
but when the bit binds she has got quite a kick...
If any of my Habitat buddies borrow mine, I always give them the lecture...Know where the drill is going to go if it hits a nail...Plan ahead! It can knock you off a ladder or bloodie your nose in the blink of an eye.
You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
when I picked it up, I asked to run my big self feed through a block of wood and the guy I bought it from slapped a 2x6 on some sawhorses.... I then sat down on the 2X6 to keep it from kicking my butt if the bit bound.... slowed down a wee bit, and I felt the whole thing twitch a bit... it takes and SAE threaded handle that I am hoping is not propreitary... might just go get a really long grade 8 bolt to thread in...
jmmmm
Any time mine goes back in the box with no fresh blood on it is a good day.
Think that's why the box and drill are red, hides the evidence.
Joe H
Ya know-
I never thought about Milwaukee's choice of color like that before, but it makes sense!
You get the HoleHawg, or the regular right angle drill?
I have the RA, and you're right. It does have quite a kick. Years ago, I was drilling holes thru ceiling beams to run the vent pipe for a bathroom fan. The hole saw caught, and the drill slammed my arm against a beam. I had a real nice bruise on both sides of my arm for quite a while.
Its this one
http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_27_40028_-1_684314_192165_192137
I really wanted the holehawg, but could not rationalize the $... and have no idea when I would ever need to drill a hole that big... add to the fact the one I found was virtually mint, and had a 24 inch auger bit (1" diameter) and that it was 125... and by my favorite ice cream place... taylors in chester nj... did spend 16 in gas to get there though!
Jeffjmmmm
Yeah, that's the same beast I have.
I think the HoleHawg has a clutch so that when a bit jams, so will the drill. But I like to live dangerously. <G>
Mine does not have a clutch but it sure will give a kick.I learned real quick not to attempt to hold it back, I make sure the pipe handle is in contact with something solid and just let it feed till it's thru or stalls. It NEVER stalls. :-)
I was using mine to turn a 3" hole saw through the 1/2" cdx subsill of a 12" deep window box so I could blow cellulose.
I didn't expect a hole saw to bind up, but when it did it put the drill and my hand right through a brand new double-glazed casement window. Fortunately didn't need stitches, but took a couple weeks to heal up.
Yanking out the power cord would not stop such a beast. It happens so quickly, you can't even react.
Riversong HouseWright
Design * * Build * * Renovate * * ConsultSolar & Super-Insulated Healthy Homes
I am planning on bracing it and holding a "loose" grip.... if she binds, I want to let go and step back... not ride the drill into something painful...
I am a lefty, so that will work in my favor, If it binds it will pop out of my hand and swing into something else...
good times...
Jeffjmmmm
"I am planning on bracing it and holding a "loose" grip.... if she binds, I want to let go and step back... not ride the drill into something painful... "
IME, the loser you hold it, the more likely you are to have it grab. Most of the time, the grabbing is caused by the saw getting bound in the hole if the drill isn't perfectly aligned with the hole -- kinda like it's cross-threaded. If you have a good grip on it, and aren't off balance, you can control the kick and stall the drill -- but you have to plan for it and be ready. And, unless you are using a self-feeder, you pretty much have to put some serious force into the drill to get a hole saw to work -- the bigger the bit, the more force. So a light touch just doesn't work too well. If it's practical, I'll wedge the drill up against a stud or something so it can't go spinning out of control if, er, when, it does catch.
I've never used a single-tooth saw, but my impression is that any saw that leaves a generous kerf will bind less since the saw body would be narrower than the hole, so less chance of "cross-threading". Dunno, though.
I hate drilling holes with these things. But sometimes, it's the only way.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
"IME, the loser you hold it, the more likely you are to have it grab. Most of the time, the grabbing is caused by the saw getting bound in the hole if the drill isn't perfectly aligned with the hole -- kinda like it's cross-threaded. If you have a good grip on it, and aren't off balance, you can control the kick and stall the drill -- but you have to plan for it and be ready"Exactly. Hold it tight and keep the drill lined up. You can stop the drill if your braced and holding it tight. If you hold it loose, I guarantee you'll bind up 3 or 4 times and you'll probably brake the drill and/or the bit.
trust me- the Milwaukee RA is one drill you can't stop.
Even in my younger days, when I could carry bundles of roof shingles all day, that drill would overpower me. I think its something to do with all the torque it has with the gearing and low RPM.
new plan hold it tight and get a really big side handle to brace off of ...
jmmmm
Years ago, my dad had this large 3/4" old Black&Decker drill. It was geared down to run at something like 150 rpm, and weighed a lot.
He had a young guy, an ex high school football lineman working for him. My dad set him up to drill some good size holes in a beam lying on the ground.
Long story short- The drill's switch lock was on, it caught in the wood, and the guy made several revolutions on top of the drill until the cord pulled out.
No one was hurt, but he did have a heck of a story to tell his buddies.
And I have no idea what eventually happened to that drill.
Probably confiscated by the military and mounted on the bumper of a deuce and a half for a winch.
Edited 3/21/2008 11:02 am ET by rasconc
You're using .... the wrong tool.
Had you purchased the Milwaukee impact driver, with the appropriate 7/16 chuck, you would not have the problem. You never feel the tool twist with an impact driver.