Replies

1. 
   joeh | Sep 12, 2008 05:40am | #1

   How should I approach lifting my ridge into place?

   Skyhooks, you'll need a pair.

   Ck with your local rental yard.

   Joe H

2. 
   joeh | Sep 12, 2008 05:42am | #2

   OK, that was a joke.

   How bout some more info?

   Is this a 18" tall glulam or a 2x12?

   Joe H

1. 
   blownonfuel | Sep 12, 2008 03:20pm | #5

   Thanks Joe. 2x8x20'. 4/12 hip, single story, no snow loads, asphalt shingles, 8' walls.

1. 
   joeh | Sep 12, 2008 06:00pm | #8

   Little skinny piece like that you can skip the sky hooks.

   Working alone, Dave's the way.

   Joe H

3. 
   DaveMason2 | Sep 12, 2008 05:56am | #3

   What kind of pitch did you want? I like to do the math first and then build a beam pocket on top of my gable end walls. Then I set one end of my ridge in the pocket and then move my ladder over to the other end and set that end in.

    

    

1. 
   blownonfuel | Sep 12, 2008 03:22pm | #7

   Thanks Dave. I have a hip roof,4/12 pitch,26'-5 1/2" span ,single story,8'walls, pretty much just a regular house.

1. 
   Framer | Sep 12, 2008 10:28pm | #9

   I have a hip roof,4/12 pitch,26'-5 1/2" span ,single story,8'walls,

   I thought it was 25' 5-1/2".

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=109486.13

    Joe Carola

1. 
   blownonfuel | Sep 15, 2008 05:08am | #16

   My goof Joe. 26 5 1/2 is correct.

2. 
   Jim_Allen | Sep 14, 2008 05:41am | #12

   He won't have a gable built first. I do it your way; build the gable, add some sort of ledger, set the ridge on the ledger. Walk to the other end. Set it up on my precut ridge support. Temp brace it. Start adding rafters. Usually, it's more trouble to have help rather than to do that alone.

1. 
   joeh | Sep 14, 2008 06:12am | #13

   He won't have a gable built first.

   I've been wondering what he's doing.

   He has so many threads going I don't know what he has up, but why doesn't he have his gabel ends framed?

   Thought he was framing and standing sheathed walls, but I guess I haven't read everything he's posted.

   Joe H

1. 
   dovetail97128 | Sep 14, 2008 08:07am | #14

   FWIW
   My take on his posts is that he is asking questions ahead of his work in a lot of cases.
   As if he sits down at night and sees an issue looming for him and asks a specific question concerning it long before he is actually doing the work associated with it then when an answer is given he has to back track and cover all the questions that come up before the one asked about.
   They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.

1. 
   blownonfuel | Sep 15, 2008 05:07am | #15

   Ya pretty much Dt.

4. 
   Framer | Sep 12, 2008 08:38am | #4

   Nail front and back commons on each end of the building into the top- plates and let the plumb cuts at the top butt into each other. Lift the ridge up in between the commons and slide into place and nail them up. That's all you need to do. The rafters set the ridge height and level.

   If you give the exact span, ridge thickness and width of the rafter, I can give you the exact ridge height, but you still don't have to do that.

    

   Joe Carola
1. 
   blownonfuel | Sep 12, 2008 03:21pm | #6

   Thanks Joe.

2. 
   robert | Sep 14, 2008 12:11am | #10

   Having started just setting trusses, usually 30 foot span 5/12................

   The first time I had to set a ridge was in "The Hills" in Bedminster.

   Took me about 6 times to get used to standing on that scaffolding 8 feet off the ceiling joists, holding two rafters and trying to push a ridge up between them.

   Gets a bunch easier once you relax.

1. 
   dovetail97128 | Sep 14, 2008 04:29am | #11

   I want to know how you keep a 2x12 x 18' rafter standing in place while you get the mate nailed into place and then have that pair stand there while you repeat the procedure 20' away.

   They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.