FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Sewer line, how deep?

dockelly | Posted in General Discussion on November 27, 2006 06:45am

The township say I need to cut and cap sewer and water at curb for house lift.  How far down is it usually?  Location is all sand, no rocks, on an island.

thanks

kevin

Reply

Replies

  1. rnsykes | Nov 27, 2006 07:32pm | #1

    It depends on the elevation of the main you are going to be tying into.  you don't want to be below that for sure. 

  2. ccal | Nov 27, 2006 07:36pm | #2

    It varies a lot, some are only a couple of feet, I have seen some as deep as 10 to 12 feet.

  3. RalphWicklund | Nov 27, 2006 07:38pm | #3

    Depth of tap varies with location.

    Mine is 39".

    Across town we tied into one greater than 8 ft.

    Your local govt. should have the info available, block by block or house by house. Otherwise, just dig until you find it. <G>

    Also, find the point where the city tap ends and the cleanout is installed. Quite often a fernco type junction is used rather than a glueup. You could then just easily disconnect and dry-cap the tap end.

    It sounds like the jurisdiction is going to make you reslope the entire waste run to the street. Otherwise you could cut and paste further back unless they think the initial drop to reconnect would be too severe for the flow. It's not, otherwise a second floor commode would also be too much. Why not ask for a cut and reconnect closer to the house at the point of the first cleanout? Could save a bunch of work on your part as well as a bunch of cash.



    Edited 11/27/2006 11:50 am ET by RalphWicklund

    1. dockelly | Nov 27, 2006 07:47pm | #4

      I'm guessing you guys are talking about the water line, or were you speaking about the sewer as well?  I'll call water and sewer dept, just thought it might be a standard depth.  Thanks

      Kevin

      1. User avater
        BillHartmann | Nov 27, 2006 09:58pm | #5

        The water line feed by pressure. It can be any depth, just as long as it is below frost depth. So that is usually where it will be.Sewer has to flow by gravity. So wherever it has to empty out and the local terain and that will set the depth and it can be most anything.

      2. BobKovacs | Nov 27, 2006 10:03pm | #6

        Open the manholes upstream and downstream from the house and see how deep the line is from the street- that'll give you an idea of how deep it'll be at your lot.  The water line will likely be 3-4' deep.

        Bob

        1. Piffin | Nov 28, 2006 08:11am | #7

          except for the places where it is eight or ten.Every municipality is different, but they should have public records.The prt of this that amazes me is that the town is will ing to let the individual do the tap in. Usually they do it themselves and charge a fee. 

           

          Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          1. dockelly | Nov 28, 2006 04:46pm | #8

            "The prt of this that amazes me is that the town is will ing to let the individual do the tap in. Usually they do it themselves and charge a fee."I'm not tapping in at all. The plumbing inspector wants me to replace the sewer line, and by me I mean I hire someone, once the house is set back down. That goes for the water also. They assume both will be destroyed with the process of lifting the house. Since all this stuff is only 20 years old, there's a chance it is not a cast iron sewer line. If it's plastic I'll be hoping it won't be destroyed so I don't have to replace it. If it's anything other than plastic, I want it upgraded regardless. Either way, a pro will be doing it. The water table is so high, once you go down a foot or so the hole starts to fill with water and you need pumps etc to continue, a job for a pro.
            Thanks
            Kevin

          2. BobKovacs | Nov 28, 2006 06:20pm | #9

            Doc's in NJ, so I was going by what's typical depth here.  Also, it's typical here for the homeowner's contractor to have to do the sewer tap- not the township. The water companies are usually separate entities from the townships, and they normally do their own taps for residential services and leave you a curb box to connect at.

            Bob

          3. Piffin | Nov 29, 2006 02:22am | #10

            I see. Was going by my own experiences in smaller towns 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

  4. IdahoDon | Nov 29, 2006 05:56am | #11

    You might simply ask your plumbing guy.  They usually have a good idea since many areas of town are similar.  Excavators who do this kind of work also have a good idea of what's common.

     

    Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.

    1. dockelly | Nov 29, 2006 04:38pm | #12

      Called the water and sewer department and it so happens the superintendent there used to date the former owner. He actually did some work on the plumbing and said he was almost positive the sewer line was cast iron. Said the best way to make sure was crawl under the house and find the connection of the black ABS and the sewer line just a few inches underground at that point. If I dig at the curb it could be very deep and the hole would fill with water.
      Thanks
      Kevin

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Scaled to Suit the Site

This thoughtfully designed home preserves the character of its neighborhood while maximizing space for a growing family through careful attention to scale, rooflines, and material choices.

Featured Video

How to Install Exterior Window Trim

Learn how to measure, cut, and build window casing made of cellular PVC, solid wood, poly-ash boards, or any common molding material. Plus, get tips for a clean and solid installation.

Related Stories

  • A 1980s Condo Goes Retro Vintage
  • Sharp-Blade Solution
  • Podcast Episode 684: Masonry Heaters, Whole-House Ventilation, and Porch Flooring
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Repairing an Old Home While Maintaining Its Integrity

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers
  • Issue 327 - November 2024
    • Repairing Damaged Walls and Ceilings
    • Plumbing Protection
    • Talking Shop

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in