Shedding h20 in between deck joist bays?
Greetings:
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Looking for suggestions!!
I am building a deck and I want to fill in the bays of the floor Joists (2×8 PT) so water does not fall below but is carried to the front of the deck (where I will install a gutter). I will have no access to the underside of the deck since it will be low to the ground.
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I am wondering what type of material I can use between the 2×8 joists. I can not use aluminum coil stock because of corrosion. What about galvanized coil stock? Or do they sell sheets of thin fiberglass? I was thinking about corrugated fiberglass roofing but that would be a pain to fit in between the joists.
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Does anyone have any suggestions or has accomplished this task with any success?
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Thanks
Hacker454
Replies
Maybe run a pitched rubber roof membrane and platform your deck off of that?
Dustin
Thanks Dustin,,,,but I would like to catch the water in a gutter ( I have drainage pipe near by).
You can try this sight for now.
http://www.dekdrain.com/
Here's another site.
http://www.drybelow.com/
I query why you are having a 'drip through' deck that won't...Why not a solid deck with Dec-K-ing or Circoseal (sp) on plywood?
If you live near trees, then needles, leaves, etc will be caught in the channels.
All the best...
To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.
Edited 11/20/2005 1:50 am by piko
Regardless what choice you go with, it's going to be a pain. There's really no 'easy' way to do what you propose. You could quite likely put in a pitched slope concrete pad under the deck for the money and time you'll spend outfitting the deck to shed your water. The biggest challenge will be to what extent you want to make it bulletproof for the long haul.
You can use aluminum if you isolate it with felt. The copper in ACQ will react with fasteners but with a membrane between the two surfaces, you could get away with using aluminum coil stock. Nonetheless, that's a lot of breaking and bending for each joist pocket. EPDM rubber would be another option with some kind of structure beneath it for support. Like I said, whatever choice you exercise is going to be a pain... Why is this such an important element in your design? There might be an easier answer to achieve what you're trying to end up with.
Homewright:
Thanks for the suggestions. It critical that I keep the water away since I am replacing a concrete patio with a wooden deck. I have ripped up the concrete but using the existing concrete cynder blocks as a foundation. If the water drips down between the bays it has nowwhere to go. A picture is worth 1000 words here but I just do not have one.
thanks
Hacker454
"I have ripped up the concrete but using the existing concrete cinder blocks as a foundation. If the water drips down between the bays it has nowhere to go."
I get the idea that there is a very real possibility that you are creating problems by wanting to reuse this old perimeter of cinder blocks. If you feel you must do this why not just bust holes through the cinder block for drains and add some gravel below the deck. Really though, I think you should remove all or most of the block and grade the under deck area for proper drainage just like 99.5% of the other decks that are built. At the most you only need a pier on each corner and then maybe a pier every 6' on the outer edge parallel to the house - assuming you are talking about a double 2x8 as a beam.
I'm sure there are plenty of successful examples of what you are trying to do. However, the only deck that I've seen where someone tried to pitch the water from underneath resulted in ruining the ipe decking. The ipe was installed using the eb-ty system. The corrugated panels that were pitched seemed to withhold as much moisture as it shed, one theory is that lack of ventilated exacerbated the problem. On one very wet spring two years ago the couple awoke to find numerous deck boards buckled from expansion due to extreme moisture. The ipe had pulled through the ss trimhead screws. I had the unpleasant job of removing the buckled boards, shaving them to fit, and replacing them, face-screwing them to the joists. The corrugated panels were removed, and they've had no more problems since. Next year, I get to replace all the ipe.
Good luck with your plan, and let us know how you did it as well as how well it works.
"I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." Invictus, by Henley.
one more link - similar to Framer's
http://www.underdeck.com/
Just a thought:
http://www.grailcoat.com
on top, and no water gets through...